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Tag Archives: Renzo Russo

A fall from grace and a rise again: controversial designer John Galliano named new creative director of Maison Martin Margiela

07 Tuesday Oct 2014

Posted by meappropriatestyle in fashion and politics, fashion news

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fashion news item, John Galliano, Maision Martin Margiela - creative director, Maison Martin Margiela, Renzo Russo

After existing in relative obscurity for the past few years,

controversial fashion designer John Galliano

has been named recently as the new creative director of

Belgian label Maison Martin Margiela.

…

(image from the guardian.com):

john galliano, new creative director of MMM, annoucement offical photob

The ‘new face’ of John Galliano as

the new face of Maison Martin Margiela

(photo by fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier)

…

In 2011, the Gibraltar born, Central Saint Martins educated,

Paris based designer was summarily dismissed

from his position as creative director of fashion house Christian Dior

for  vicious anti-Semitic and racist remarks,

made in a Parisian cafe and directed towards fellow diners.

The incident was video-taped and presented in a Parisian court,

where the designer was charged and later received a suspended sentence.

…

At the time, Mr. Galliano had been with Dior for 15 years.

The LVHM group which owns the Dior brand cited a

“zero-tolerance policy”  on acts/language of racism and anti-Semitism.

The company quickly moved to sever

its relationship with the disgraced designer.

With a Court issued suspended sentence

and a fashion industry issued suspended sentence,

it seemed unlikely that Galliano creations would be seen

any time soon on a Parisian runway.

…

Yet, but a mere three years hence and Renzo Rosso,  president of

Only the Brave Group, which owns fashion labels Maison Martin Margiela,

Marni, Viktor & Rolf as well as jeans brand Diesel,

has decided to offer Galliano a reprieve by appointing him

creative director of the innovative label Maison Martin Margiela (MMM).

MMM has been without a designated head since

the retirement in 2009 of its founder Martin Margiela.

…

While Galliano was all flash and flamboyance:

never camera shy,  but camera seeker;

Margiela was reserved and reticient:

rarely seen and rarely interviewed.

…

(image from rt.com):

 galliano, the showman

The consummate showman

…

It would seem that Mr. Russo, who is a great admirer of Galliano’s work, is

a staunch believer in second chances.  In his announcement of Galliano

as the new creative head of MMM,

Russo is enthused with abundant praise, stating:

“John Galliano is one of the greatest, undisputed talents of all time;  (a) unique, exceptional courtier for a Maison that always challenged and innovated the world of fashion. I look forward to his return to create that Fashion Dream that only he can create.” (forbeslife.com).

Mr.  Russo sees Galliano as the future of Maison Martin Margiela and of fashion,

he states:

“This appointment marks a new era in the history of the Maison.” 

He went on to describe Galliano as “a visionary and non-conformist”.  (dailmail.com)

…

No one can neither doubt nor fault the creative genius of Mr. Galliano’s collective

oeuvre.  While at Christian Dior, his runway shows were hotly anticipated and he

rarely, if ever disappointed.

However, his comments in 2011 more than disappointed.

The words were not those of a “visionary or non-conformist”,

but those of a reactionary.

 

…

Mr.  Galliano has since undergone treatment for substance abuse concerns.

Were his words uttered while under the influence?

Or something stemming from a darker place?

…

Does one now separate the measure of the man from the measure of his talent?

It’s been done before:   time after time after time.

…

(images from fashionising)

Christian Dior

by John Galliano

Haute Couture, PFW   s/s  2010

(Before the fall:  an equestrian themed collection)

DiorCouture201030 DiorCouture201008 DiorCouture201005 DiorCouture201002 DiorCouture201016

…

 

Mr.  Galliano will present his first collection for Maision Martin Margiela

in January 2015 during Paris Haute Couture Week.

…

(Sources:  Forbes Life, The Guardian, The Daily Mail)

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