This year marks the 30th anniversary of London Fashion Week (1984 – 2014).
Traverse the years’ memorable high points:
the innovative, quirky, boundary-pushing, delight
that is British fashion.
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1983
The British Fashion Council (BFC) was founded with an aim to coordinate varied designer exhibitions under one framework, in presenting the best of British fashion to the international press and market.
(image from britishfashioncouncil.co.uk):
BFC offices at Somerset House, London
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1984
The collection of fashion talent ignites the idea for an organised means of showcase and hence, London Fashion Week is organised and launched by Annette Worsley-Taylor, founder London’s Designer Collective and PR expert, Lynne Frank.
The first event takes place in a West London car park (February, 1984) with dynamic catwalk shows and exhibitions.
The first ever British Fashion Awards are bestowed with designer, Katharine Hamnett recognised as Designer of the Year.
(image from katharinehamnett.com):
by designer Katherine Hamnett, message-wear, 1984
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1985
Cult label Bodymap by designers Stevie Stewart and David Holah, set the fashion world a-quiver with its “Barbie Takes a Trip Around Nature’s Cosmic Curves” collection, off-beat creations and general anti-fashion philosophy.
(images from shapersofthe80s.com):
Bodymap on the runway
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1986
The British fashion industry is boosted by support from Diana, Princess of Wales and British Prime Minister, Margaret Thatcher attend the shows.
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1988
Naomi Campbell models in Jasper Conran’s spring/summer show and in that year London-born Ms. Campbell becomes the first black model on the cover of French Vogue.
(image from fabmagazineonline.com):
Naomi Campbell graces the cover of French Vogue, August 1988
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1989
At only fifteen years old, model Kate Moss makes her runway debut for John Galliano.
(image from lifestylemirror.com):
A young Kate Moss walks in John Galliano runway show
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1992
The fashion industry is not spared the storm from impact of economic recession. Only a handful of designers show at The Ritz Hotel, London. Yet, where there is a storm there is a silver lining. Twenty-three year old Alexander McQueen presents his first collection inspired by Jack the Ripper’s Whitechapel victims in 1888. Sewn into the clothing was human hair in acknowledgement of the hair the Ripper’s prostitute victims would have sold.
Mr. McQueen was a story-teller and his clothes were the visual representations of the tales.
from Alexander McQueen:
“The inspiration behind the hair came from Victorian times when prostitutes would sell theirs for kits of hair locks, which were bought by people to give to their lovers. I used it as my signature label with locks of hair in Perspex. In the early collections, it was my own hair.”
A new fashion reign begins, a fashion king is crowned:
“Here were capelets made out of crows’ feathers, tailcoats with dramatic sihouettes. The designs were radical, disturbing and viscereal at a time when taste meant sleek and minimal,” recalls Harriet Quick, fashion features director of Vogue. “McQueen’s language is life, death, sex, religion – he’s a true great.”
(image from metmuseum.org):
pink satin coat with human hair embellishments
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1993
Milliner, Philip Treacy presents his first show, which features model Naomi Campbell who walks topless.
The industry continued active involvement of assistance for emerging talent with the launch of NEWGEN, a platform for gifted up-and-comers. Designated as ‘ones to watch’ were Alexander McQueen and design duo Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro of Clements Ribeiro.
(image from marieclaire.com):
Alexander McQueen, ‘Nihilism’ collection s/s 1994
~
(from clementsribeiro.com):
design duo, Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro
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1994
Interdisciplinary design visionary, Hussein Chalayan premiers his conceptual creations on the fashion stage.
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1995
Stella McCartney showcases her first collection. Models Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell walk in the show. Ms. McCartney’s entire collection is an instant sell-out sensation.
(image from marieclaire.com):
Kate Moss walks the runway for Stella McCartney’s graduate show
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1997
Model with curves, Sophie Dahl makes her runway debut, sparking new discussion on skeletal physique of runway models and an apparent link to eating disorders, such as anorexia, from the demands of models adhering to an ultra skinny fashion- type.
(image from marieclaire.com):
model Sophie Dahl modelling knitwear by Lainey Keogh
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1998
Roland Mouret’s first collection. He would later go on to design the internationally acclaimed Galaxy dress (Spring 2006 collection): the perfect frock for all women.
(image from rolandmouret.com):
the iconic Galaxy dress by designer, Roland Mouret
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2000
With his wooden table-cum-skirt, present in the “After Words” collection, a/w 2000 Hussein Chalayan, cements his reputation as one of London’s premier conceptual designers.
(image from elledecor.com):
table skirt by designer Hussein Chalayan
~
View the runway show:
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2001
Charles, Prince of Wales presents the Designer of the Year prize to Alexander McQueen at the British Fashion Awards.
(image from sfgate.com):
Prince Charles and designer, Alexander McQueen
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2002
With designers Matthew Williamson, Luella Bartley, Roland Mouret, Preen all showing in New York, London Fashion Week suffers a bit of a blow.
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2004
Fashion Fringe competition launches, which nurture cutting-edge designers with creative direction and funding.
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2005
Topshop becomes the first high street store to present at LFW.
(image from london-attractions.info):
Topshop flagship store at Oxford Circus
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2006
Chrstopher Kane unviels his first LFW collection. He went against the grain and presented “neon brights when black was in and figure-hugging when full-flowing ruled.” His risk-taking collection was hailed a success.
(image from telegraph.co.uk):
Christopher Kane presented first independent show in September 2006 at London Fashion Week
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2007
Matthew Williamson returns to show from New York to show at LFW. In addition to a show-stopping collection, an additional high point was Prince’s impromptu performance. “All dignity was abandoned as I, and many others, stood, camera-phones pointed at the legend, dancing and clapping like idiots.” (Jo Elvin, editor of Glamour)
(image from zimbio.com):
recording artist Prince performs at Matthew Williamson s/s 2008 show
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2009
LFW to Somerset House and Anna Wintour returns to front row after a two year absence. Her presence is regarded as indication that the US is taking full note of the import of LFW.
(image from zimbio.com):
Obviously, happy to be coming back! Anna Wintour, front row LFW 2010
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2012
London is riding high from the success of the Summer Olympics Games and milliner, Philip Treacy does not disappoint. He presented a hat show, which is quintessentially British fashion-cued: witty, quirky, inventive.
(image from standard.co.uk):
by milliner Philip Treacy, s/s 2013
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2014
And here we are, the s/s 2015 shows and presentations. LFW has come a long way, baby and continues to move on from strength to strength.
(image from londonfashionweek.co.uk)
London Fashion Week tents at Somerset House
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sources on LFW history from: The Independent,
Clerkenwell Vintage Fashion Farm,
The Telegraph, The New York Times
events are isted in no particular order of chronology .
Just ‘letting it be’
…
(’60s timeline details from jeffs60s.com):
’60
The Civil Rights Movement momentum: In Greensboro, North Carolina, (USA) four Black students begin a sit-in at a segregated Woolworth’s lunch counter. The incident sets in motion other similar nonviolent protests throughout the Southern United States.
…
(image from hearmedaily.com):
‘Counter sit-in’ against racial segregation in the U. S.
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’61
The DNA genetic code is broken.
The Vietnam War officially begins
Russia sends the first man into space.
John F. Kennedy becomes the 35th President of the United States.
John F. Kennedy establishes the Peace Corps.
Construction of the Berlin Wall begins, restricting movement between East Berlin and West Berlin
Baseball player Roger Maris of the New York Yankees hits his 61st home run in the last game of the season, against the Boston Red Sox, beating the 34-year-old record held by Babe Ruth.
…
(image from esa.int):
Russian cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin
is the first ‘space man”
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(image from kbizam.com):
JFK and his wife Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy
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(image from cvce.eu):
Construction of the Berlin Wall by GDR (East Germany),
overseen by military troops
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(image from theculturezone.com):
“Charity (should) begin at home.”
Established by President John F. Kennedy,
the Peace Corps is a volunteer service run by the U. S. government
to assist people throughout the world who are in need.
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’62
In a televised address, U.S. President John F. Kennedy announces to the nation the existence of Soviet missiles in Cuba.
Dr. No, the first James Bond film, premiers in UK theaters.
Pull tabs on cans are introduced.
The term “personal computer” is first mentioned by the media.
The Beatles’ first record, “My Bonnie” is released.
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(image from coca-colacompany.com):
A modern beverage: Tab sugar free cola and pull-tab cans
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’63
President Kennedy is assassinated.
The U. S. Congress enacts “equal pay for equal work” legislature for women. (A goal yet to be fully achieved.)
World famous American actress Marilyn Monroe is found dead of an apparent overdose. It becomes the most controversial death on record.
Zip codes (post codes) are introduced in the U.S.
Beatles hits, ‘I Want to Hold Your Hand’ and ‘I Saw Her Standing There’ are released in the U.S., launching the beginning of Beatlemania.
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(image from rateyourmusic.com):
LP album cover of the boys from Liverpool
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(image from pbs.org):
‘Sisterhood is powerful’
pressure on Congress results in equalizing legislation
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’64
Studebaker-Packard introduce seat belts as standard equipment.
Ford Motors introduces the “Mustang”.
3.5 billion dollars worth of vending machine sales.
…
(image from fordreview.com):
Ford’s Mustang: “The poor man’s Ferrari”
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’65
Malcolm X is assassinated.
190,000 troops are in Vietnam.
32,000 people make 54-mile “freedom march” from Selma to Montgomery.
The Beatles performed the first stadium concert in the history of rock, playing at Shea Stadium in New York.
A Charlie Brown Christmas, the first Peanuts television special, debuts on CBS.
Medicare Bill passes in the U. S. (a social insurance programme).
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(image from britannica.com):
On patrol: U. S. combat troops in Viet Nam
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(from from my.raisingthegrade.ca):
“You’re a good man, Charlie Brown!”
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’66
How the Grinch Stole Christmas, narrated by Boris Karloff, is televised for the first time on CBS. It will become an annual Christmas tradition, and the best-loved film ever based on a Dr. Seuss book.
Trekkies, this one’s for you!: Star Trek, the classic science fiction television series, debuts with its first episode, titled ‘The Man Trap’.
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T. V. cult classic Star Trek: scene from episode 1, ‘The Man Trap’
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Taster’s Choice freeze dried coffee is introduced.
In an interview published in The London Evening Standard, The Beatle’s John Lennon comments, “We’re more popular than Jesus now,” eventually sparking a controversy in the United States.
The Beatles play their very last concert at Candlestick Park in San Francisco, California.
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’67
Dr. Christiaan Barnard performs the first heart transplant.
Love Is a Many Splendored Thing debuts on U.S. daytime television and is the first soap opera to deal with an interracial relationship between a White man and a Amerasian woman. CBS censors found it too controversial and ask for it to be stopped, causing show creator Irna Phillips to quit.
U. S. government declares LSD an illegal substance.
Rolling Stone Magazine is founded.
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(image fromboards.soapoperanetwork.com):
‘Not (quite) ready for primetime’:
Love is a Many Splendored Thing
first U. S. soap opera to present an interracial couple.
Storyline is banned by CBS network bosses.
…
(image from time.com)
Dr. Christiaan Barnard
South African cardiac surgeon completes
the world’s first successful human-to-human heart transplant
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’68
The musical Hair officially opens on Broadway.
Richard Nixon is elected President.
Saddam Hussein becomes Vice Chairman of the Revolutionary Council in Iraq after a coup d’état.
A nation mourns: Robert Fitzgerald Kennedy is assassinated in California. Sirhan Sirhan is apprehended on the spot. Martin Luther King, Jr. is assassinated at the Lorraine Motel in Memphis, Tennessee. Riots erupt in major American cities for several days afterward.
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(image from cbsnews.com):
RFK
murdered on the campaign trail in his bid for the U. S. presidency
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MLK
slain U. S. civil rights leader
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’69
John Lennon returns his OBE to protest the British government’s support of the U.S. war in Vietnam.
Monty Python’s Flying Circus airs its first episode on the BBC.
Members of a cult led by Charles Manson murder Sharon Tate, (who was 8 months pregnant), and her friends at Tate and director-husband Roman Polanski’s home in Los Angeles.
U. S. astronaut Neil Armstrong is the first man to walk on the moon.
After 147 years, the last issue of The Saturday Evening Post is published.
…
(image from english.cntv.cn)
“That’s one small step for [a] man, one giant leap for mankind”
said by astronaut Neil Alden Armstrong as he takes
the famous first step on the lunar surface
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Given its progressive pace, it is of little wonder that the ’60s have left an
