This autumn the Costume Institute

at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (NYC)

presents its Fall exhibition at the

Anna Wintour Costume Centre.

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The hauntingly titled

Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire

chronicles the fashion of Victorian Era bereavement wear.

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(image from the metropolitan museum of art):

in full mourning attire

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Curated by

  Harold Koda, Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute,

and Jessica Regan, Assistant Curator –

the exhibition highlights thirty mourning outfits

from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

It traces a century of bereavement garments

from 1815 – 1915

years encompassing the Victorian and Edwardian eras.

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During this historical period, mourning dress was women-centred;

as the very act of ‘mourning’, was a female role.

Attention focused on the clothing worn by the grieving women.

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(image from angelpig):

 

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As with all any fashion content, mourning attire

had its own quality of extravagance and ostentation.

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For the first year of bereavement,

societal dictates required that when in public

women were to be attired

in the customary colour of black,

as black was regarded as the absence of

light and therefore life.

A ‘weeping veil’ was worn, which covered the face.

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(image from tchevalier):

 

weeping veil (l)

mourning hat (r)

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This first year was known as the period of deep mourning.

The dress was fashionable, yet simple

and free of any embellishments.

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(image from tinkercottagemuseum):

 

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The next stage known as second mourning lasted for nine months.

During this period, lack lustre black wear was still worn,

but with a bit of black trim on the clothing

and jewelery was permissible.

The weeping veil, still part of the ensemble,

 was worn pushed over the head and the face exposed.

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