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~ an on-line fashion, design and arts magazine exploring topics of cultural interests from historical reference to current trends

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Category Archives: menswear

Yohji, Jr.? Meet designer Teppei Fujita of menswear label Sulvam

12 Wednesday Apr 2017

Posted by meappropriatestyle in agender fashion, andro-chic style, casual wear, design inspiration, designer profile, emerging designers, fabric blends, fashion = clothes, fashion inspiration, gender fluid fashion, men's fashion, menswear, menswear designers, Paris Fashion Week, runway presentation, signature look, Tokyo Fashion Week, urban wear, urban-chic, Yohji Yamamoto

≈ 1 Comment

Teppei Fujita, graduate of the famed Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo,

is the creative force behind menswear brand Sulvam.

He is a fashion disciple of consummate designer Yohji Yamamoto.

Prior to the launch of Sulvam in 2013,

Mr. Fujita worked as a pattern maker for Yohji Yamamoto.

While in this role, he refined his craft for melding fine tailoring with elements of

urban streetwear aesthetics and styling:  a signature Yamamoto characteristic.

…

designer, Tappei Fujita

sulvam, designer, bw image Teppei Fujita pitti immagine _portrait2

(image from pitti imagine)

…

Mr. Fujita, shows both in Paris and in Tokyo.

He is particularly  keen to further international interest

in Tokyo Fashion Week, which no doubt will be generated by enthusiasm

over his future creations.

His is a design principle of a fashion fluid attitude:

oversized silhouette

tailored details

various textile content / colours

agender aspect (a non-gender specific look)

…

Sulvam

by Tappei Fujita

a/w 2017

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

(images from pause magazine)

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All hail, it’s “raining men”: the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) is venue for ‘Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear 1715 – 2015’- an exhibition chronicling 300 years of men’s fashion!

19 Tuesday Apr 2016

Posted by meappropriatestyle in exhibitions, fashion and history, fashion exhibitions, fashion fun, fashion historic reference, fashion innovation, history notes, history of fashion, mark your diary, menswear, menswear designers

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

fashion exhibitions 2016, history of fashion, history of men's fashion, Mark your diary!, menswear, Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear 1715 - 2015, The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA)

 

Throughout history, men’s fashion has been

a compass of direction for style trend setting.

From ancient to contemporary times,

there has been distinct periods during which

menswear has gloried in “peacock” display.

 

…

Celebrating menswear design of the

flamboyant, avant-garde, revolutionary and style-making

the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA)

hosts a new show entitled:

Reigning Men:  Fashion in Menswear 1715 – 2015

…

Menswear

from then, to now

lacma, reigning men, latfusa.com

(image from latfusa.com)

 

…

This exhibition traces the development of singular elements of men’s fashion.

It is an intricate examination of menswear

beginning with the opulence of 18th century dress:

jacket, long waistcoat, knee breeches;

and culminating with study of the innovative genius

of leading contemporary menswear designers:

Yohji Yamamoto, Hedi Slimane,

Thom Browne, Walter Van Beirendonck and more.

…

“Milord”

18th century men’s dress

shirt with ruffled collar/sleeves

to the knee brocade jacket

matching long-length waistcoat and breeches

mens fashion, 18th century, vam.ac.uk

(image from vam.ac.uk)

…

It’s a groovy kind of thing!

outfit by

by Belgian designer, Walter Van Beirendonck

for a/w  2001

lacma, reigning men Walter Van Beirendonck outfit, a_w 2001

(image from lacma.org)

…

Showcased are 200 looks which serve to highlight

the five specific subject areas which serve as foci of the exhibition:

Revolution and Evolution

East and West

Uniformity

Body Consciousness

The Splendid Man

…

Given, that in current fashion vernacular

menswear is translated into a dress directive adopted by all

this exhibition is of much import and relevance:

a definite must-see.

…

lacma, reigning men, daily trojancom

(image from dailytrojan.com)

…

Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear 1715-2015

10 April to 21 August 2016

Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Los Angeles, California

 

…

For further details, visit

http://www.lacma.org/ReigningMen#landing

 

…

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An OOTD (outfit of the day) shoutout: all seen in olive green

05 Friday Feb 2016

Posted by meappropriatestyle in colour, colourspeak, express yourself, menswear, OOTD (outfit of the day), street wear sass, style cue, style ideas?, style inspiration

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

fashion colour- olive green, menswear, olive green as signature colour, OOTD (outfit of the day), street fashion

 

 

A head to toe, ‘right-tight’ styled ensemble-

in shades of olive green:

overcoat with silver-grey faux fur collar

trousers with red side piping and arched hem trimmed in mustard-yellow

 

 

injection added colour dimension-

mustard-yellow jacket and dark wash denim shirt

 

 

accessorised with thought-

mustard-brown frame sunnies

black clutch with red star applique

hunter-green lace up shoes

 

 

…

OOTD

 

Soft greens on the fashion scene

men, olive green and hint of mustard ensemble, fashionising

…

(image from fashionising)

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‘Where the buffalo roam’: men’s full-on faux fur coats, from Dolce & Gabbana for a/w 2016

30 Saturday Jan 2016

Posted by meappropriatestyle in coats, fabrication, faux fur, menswear, ready to wear, signature piece, winter wear

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

'Buffalo' overcoats, autumn/winter 2016, Dolce & Gabbana, faux fur coats, faux fur trousers, menswear, menswear - overcoats, overcoats, oversized clothing, oversized coats, signature piece

 

 

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana

the design duo of the eponymous label Dolce & Gabbana (D & G)

are known for their distinctive design directive:

 

 

 

inevitably ornate

whimsical

often quirky

colourful

sometimes inspired by historical/cultural references

textural

stunning fabrication

 

 

 

 

never subdued, or one-dimensional

a bit of the wild, weird and delightfully wonderful.

 

 

For their a/w  2016 menswear collection, D & G presented overcoats

with more than a hint of  ‘Grizzly Adams’ fashion flair:

super-size oversized and faux fur overflow

for much tactile comfort and necessary warmth against

the winter chill.

 

 

 

…

 

 

Leg-wear notes:

close-fit knit trousers and faux fur full ‘Buffalo’ trousers 

 

…

 

 

 

Dolce and Gabbana

Menswear Collection,    a/w 2016

dolce & gabbana, men f 2016, buffalo coats, vogue.co.uk dolce & gabbana, men f 2016, buffalo coats, vogue.co.uk dolce & gabbana, men f 2016, buffalo coats, vogue.co.uk

…

‘Buffalo’  faux fur  trousers

dolce & gabbana, men f 2016, buffalo coats, vogue.co.uk

…

Close-fit knit trousers

dolce & gabbana, men f 2016, buffalo coats, vogue.co.uk

 

dolce & gabbana, men f 2016, buffalo coats, vogue.co.uk

…

(images from vogue.com and vogue uk)

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Favlook-Lookfav Focus: Gents attired on-point

28 Thursday Jan 2016

Posted by meappropriatestyle in accessories, express yourself, Favlook - Lookfav Focus, free to be me, men's suiting, men's suits, menswear, personal style, street style sass

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

accessories, casual-wear, Favlook - Lookfav Focus, men's fashion, men's suits, menswear, personal style, street fashion, street style

 

 

Whether in casual wear:

hoodies, leather jackets, bombers, tees, shirts untucked,

jeans, knit caps, berets, wide rim feathered hats

 

 

or sharp suited in:

elegant three pieces, traditionally knotted ties,

pocket kerchiefs, wide band fedoras-

 

 

some gents make the point of being ‘on-point’

fashion fabulous, style statement makers

and seeming effortlessly so!

 

Favlook – Lookfav Focus

 

Gents, on- point

The Cool Casuals

asual wear, men, before sunrise

…

The Smart Suits

men in suits, beforesunrise,

…

(photos from before sunrise)

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Oui Monsieur! : runway favourites from Men’s Fashion Week- Paris, a/w 2016

27 Wednesday Jan 2016

Posted by meappropriatestyle in accessories, design inventive, fashion = clothes, men's suiting, men's suits, menswear, ready to wear, style = innovation, style cue, style ideas?, style inspiration, trouser suit

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

autumn/winter 2016, autumn/winter clothing, Mens Fashion Week - Paris, menswear designers, menswear- autumn 2016

 

 

The collections presented at

Men’s Fashion Week-  Paris,  autumn / winter 2016

did not disappoint:

 

 

inventive suiting options

colour clash chromatics

loose layering silhouettes

style saturated separates

other – worldly outfitted

 

 

all proudly paraded down runway.

 

…

 

Garçons, it’s  ‘style – groove – on’  for a / w 2016!

 

 

Runway, Run-away Favourites

Menswear Collections, Paris a / w 2016

 

 

 

 

At Attention:  referencing military-wear

by designer, Takahiro Miyashita

for Takahiromiyashita The Soloist

~

trousers with gold button detail: 

reminiscent of those worn by British naval men (circa 18th C.)

shoe accessory:  spats guard

headwear:  smart look beret

paris, men, f 2016, takahiromiyashita-the-soloist, vogue.com menswear-2016-

 

…

A Rainbow Connection

by designer, Paul Smith

~

colour clash done correctly

Just so!

paris, men, paul smith f 2016, vogue.com

 

 

…

1-2-3  Easy fit Layering

by Jonny Johansson

for Acne Studios

~

drawstring hem dress over trousers

earth tones

paris, men, a16, drawstring dress over trousers, acne-studios-menswear, voguecom -fall-2016

 

(images from vogue.com)

 

…

Pinstripe Suiting Steps way-out of the Boardroom

from Shangguan Zhe

Sankuanz  (label)

~

bold patterns

wide lapels

up-tempo accessorising / styling

 

Sankuanz Men's Fall 2016, wwd

(image from wwd.com)

…

Smart – look Oversizing

by designer Yohji Yamamoto

~

neutral base colours

hints of red shades

Japanese character print details

black / white jazz brogues

paris, men, a16, yohji yamammoto, vogueuk

…

Contrasts in Concert

from the design team at

Maison Margiela

~

harmony of opposites:

tight fit top / flowing, sleeveless cover

toggle closure

paris, men, a16, maison margiela, vogueuk KIM_0268_426x639

 

…

Print Pattern Party

by Rei Kawakubo

for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus

~

classic suit material

lively pattern / print fabrication to jacket shoulder and sleeve

‘high-water’ cropped trousers

paris, men, f16, comme des garcons homme plus, vogue uk

 

 

…

‘Snow Storm Trooper’

by designer, Boris Bidjan Saberi

~

monochromatic

parachute-esque straps

zipper detail

paris, men, a16, boris bidjan saberi, storm trooper,

…

Smart Separates

by Sébastien Meunier

for Ann Demeulemeester

~

 

jewel tone blue hues

colour contrasts in shades of brown

paris, men, a16,ann demeulemeester, vogue uk

…

(images from vogue.uk)

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Ciao ragazzi, è Pitti Uomo autunno 2016! Cue the menswear street style fashion parade!

17 Sunday Jan 2016

Posted by meappropriatestyle in fashion inspiration, free to be me, menswear, off - runway, Pitti Uomo, street style sass, style = innovation, style cue, style ideas?, style inspiration

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

menswear, off - runway fashion, Pitti Uomo - autumn 2016, street style

 

 

It’s that time of year again,

when on the international fashion calendar

off-runway style-   rivals

no, some would say-  surpasses

on-runway creations.

Sì, ragazzi

it’s Pitti Uomo, Florence!

Let the fashion peacock parade commence, crederci!

…

Pitti Uomo

Street Style Sprezzatura

for Autumn 2016

(photos from gq magazine):

Agent provocatuer

seduction of the pinstripe boilersuit

pitti uomo street, pinstripe boiler suit, gq Pitti-Street-Style-16-GQ-15Jan16

…

Perfect pairing

classic three piece suiting

visual impact overcoat

pitti uomo street, a16, gqmag, wool suit, coat, tie

…

Another triple threat

three piece suiting

pitti uomo street, classic suiting, gq

…

Colour impact

bright orange trench

pitti uomo street, bright orange coat, gqmag Pitti-Street-Style-15-GQ-15Jan16

…

Winter whites

accessorised with blue hues

pitti uomo street, winter whites (trousers, with slate blue accents gq Pitti-Street-Style-

…

Hat cocked to the right

fancy fedora

Pitti- uomo Street, hat tip side, gq

…

Style coordination from H to T  (head to toe)

Pitti-uomo Street, coordinated, gq

…

(photos by Adam Katz Sinding):

Comfortable chic

athleisure wear

suiting, wmagLe-21eme-Adam-Katz-Sinding-Pitti-Immagine-Uomo-89-Florence-Italy-Mens-Fashion-Week-Fall-Winter-2016-

…

“Be the boy with the hair!”

pitti uomo street, dreds, all about the hair, wmg

…

A bit old school

white pocket handkerchief

pitti uomo street, pocketchief, wmag Le-21eme-Adam-Katz-Sinding-Pitti

…

Tat – a – boo

driving glove reveal of hand tatto

tatoo, hand, driving gloves, wmag Le-21eme-Adam-Katz-Sinding

…

(photos from highsnobiety.com):

His – ‘n – Hers

check trouser suiting

pitti-uomo street, his and hers, highsnobiety -89-fall-winter-2016-street-style

…

AiB (All in Black)

with a few white accents

pitti-uomo street, highsnobietycom -89-fall-winter-2016

…

It’s not all about the trousers

plaid pattern skirting

pitti-uomo street, plaid pattern skirt, highsnobiety -

…

Placed here , Placed there

overcoat with linear patchwork pieces

pitti-uomo street, highsnobiety, pacthwork, coat -89-fall-winter-2016-street-style-

…

Details,  Details,  Details

black cossack hat

tartan green dropped – crotch  trousers

metal tip footwear

pitti-uomo street, highsnobiety tartan drop trousers, metal tip shoes

…

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High wattage: spotlight focus on London Collections: Men (LC: M) for autumn 2016

15 Friday Jan 2016

Posted by meappropriatestyle in avant garde, colourspeak, design experimentation, design inventive, fashion fun, fashion innovation, Favlook - Lookfav Focus, free to be me, London Collections: Men (LC: M), menswear, menswear designers, runway favourites, runway presentation, style = innovation, style ideas?, style inspiration

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

'colour-clothed', autumn 2016, colour statement, conceptual fashion design, fashion factors, fashion fun, fashion inventive, Favlook - Lookfav Focus, London Collections: Men (LCM), menswear, menswear- autumn 2016, runway favourites

 

 

Organised bi-annually

London Collections:  Men

showcases the out-of-the-ordinary inventiveness

that has steadfastly remained the ‘fabric’ of British fashion.

 

Presented at LC:M  a/w 2016,  (8 – 11 January 2016)

were varied design elements of

fashion humour

fashion fun

fashion conceptualisation

fashion think-out-of-the-box, “why don’t ‘ya?”,  nudges

 

…

London Collections:  Men

autumn 2016

On runway:  a few of my Favlook-Lookfav Favourites

 

from Moschino

by designer, Jeremy Scott

A DC comic character reference:

channeling the Joker

colour-bursts of seismic porportions

LCM, a16, moschino, marvel comic character, channeling the joker, vogue_

LCM, moschino, marvel comic, vogue

…

from designer, J. W. Anderson

Knitwear:   jumper/trouser set in olive-green

LCM, a16,olive  knit set, j.w. anderson, voguecom

~

A modern stitch on the granddad cardi

oversized, slouchy, slashes

LCM, slouchy oversized grandpa cardi, j.w. anderson, voguecom

…

from designer, Astrid Andersen

Mixed fabrication

an olive-green scene

LCM, astrid andersen, green mixed fabrication, voguecom

…

from designer, Nasir Mazhar

AiB (All in Black) conception

outer limits spacesuiting

LCM, a 16, nasir mazhar, aib,total cover, concept

LCM, a16, aib, nasir mazhar, voguecom

…

from Topman Design

Of varied textural tendencies:

crushed velvet, silk,  knitwear

in delicious raspberry red and rich chocolate brown

LCM, topman design, mixed fabrication, crushed velvet, voguecom

LCM, topman design, a16, crushed velvet suiting, chocolate brown, voguecom

…

from designer, Craig Green

‘Laced up and Strapped in’

LCM, lace up, craig green, voguecom

LCM, a16, strapped in, craig green, voguecom

…

by Sarah Burton

for Alexander McQueen

Chain reaction

as facial jewellery and clothing accessory

LCM, alexander mcqueen, all in chains, voguecom

…

Tiger of Sweden

Colour-rific casual suiting

(t)  blush champagne

(b)  cantaloupe orange

LCM, casual suiting, blush champagne, tiger of sweden, a16, voguecom  _ARC0694

LCM, casual suiting, tiger of sweden, cantaloupe orange, voguecom _

…

from the wild wonderful whacky world of the design team at

Sibling

Sumo wrestler / boxing prize-fighter compilation

in fashion fun knitwear (Sibling’s tried and true signature fabrication)

LCM, a16, boxer_sumo wrestler integration, sibling, a16, voguecom

LCM, a16, sibling, wrestler cardi, voguecom _LCM, a16, boxing_sumo integration, sig. knit fabrication, voguecom _

…

from Agi and Sam

by design duo,  Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton 

 Overcoat in green colour hues

colour block / pocket details

LCM, overcoat, green W_  colour block, agi and sam, voguecom

…

(images from vogue.com)

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:D :D (denim on denim) fashion: Let’s hear it for the boys!

08 Friday Jan 2016

Posted by meappropriatestyle in denim-wear, express yourself, fashion fun, fashion inspiration, menswear, menswear designers, off - runway, ready to wear, runway favourites, style cue, style ideas?, style inspiration

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

denim fabrication, denim on the runway, denim street style, denim-on-denim, menswear, menswear designers, spring/summer 2016

 

Denim-on-denim attire

continues its sartorial rise

with much added fashion innovation for 2016.

 

 

…

 

Let’s hear it for the boys

as they show how its done!

 

…

Street style sass

Total style maker

ribbed effect waistcoat and pocketed duster

denim on denim, men, jacket_vest  fashionisingMilanMenswearStreetStyleSS14

(image from fashionising.com)

…

Two to-dos

(l)  classic ensemble:  waist length jacket and relax fit trousers

(r)  triple threat:  shirt, outer-stitch waistcoat, jeans

denim on denim, men, tokyofashionguide.com mens-double-denim-street-style

(photo from tokyofashionguide.com)

…

Keeping it simple

jacket as inner-wear paired with a traditional navy blue overcoat

denimwear, men, thousandyardstylecom

(photo from thousandyardstyle.com)

…

It’s all about the details

Trousers with buckle features at knee

denim on denim, men, buckle detail trousers, eatsleepdenimcom

(photo from eatsleepdenim.com)

…

On the runway rendition

 

S / S  2016

by designer, Greg Lauren

~

Stripped and Striped

(t)  three-piece suiting

(b)  patchwork wide rim hat

patchwork jacket with asymmetric button closure

rivet hole detail to hem / sleeve

 

denim on denim, men, s16, striped, strip effect, match jacket_trouser greg lauren, voguecomdenim on denim, men, rivet jacket_hat, jogger, s16, greg lauren, voguecom

…

from BLK DNM

by designer, Johan Lindeberg

~

A matte finish

charcoal grey shirt and matching trousers

denim on denim, BLK DNM,

…

by designer, Craig Green

~

Karate Kid

 double hem jacket

cinched at waist with same fabric sash

matching loose-fit trousers

denim on denim, men, craig green, s 16 vogue _

…

from designer, Italo Zucchelli

for Calvin Klein Collection

~

Flash fabrication

stonewash effect sweatshirt

stonewash effect easy-flare jeans

with contrast dark wash hem

denim on denim, calvin klein, s 16, voguecom

…

from design label, Au Jour Le Jour

by Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez

~

Fun fashion

midwash casuals:  jacket and zany appliqué jeans

denim on denim, menswear, au-jour-le-jour-

…

(runway images from vogue.com)

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A lookbook feature: On the design directive of menswear creative, Ziggy Chen

30 Monday Nov 2015

Posted by meappropriatestyle in gender-less fashon, menswear, minimalism, style ideas?, style inspiration, subdued colours

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

agender attitude, menswear, menswear fashion, menswear style options, minimalist fashion, muted colours, Ziggy Chen- designer

 

 

After successfully piloting various fashion projects

Shanghai based, Chinese designer-

Ziggy Chen

steered out on a solo course

to launch his eponymous menswear label in 2012.

 

…

His is an aesthetics of fusion, a blending of design elements:

historical referencing and current trends

East and West fashion features

masculine and feminine sartorial slant

textile innovations of mixed fabrication

…

The pieces are of subdued perspective

muted colour story

minimalist styling

asymmetric aspects

…

Designed by Ziggy Chen

 

ziggy chen, a15, khaki green scene. strip trousers, ink361.com 11333438_1634744710139886_188875008_n

Khaki green scene

striped shirt / trousers (khaki green, black)

knee-length, light-weight coat

(image from ink361.com)

…

ziggy chen, menswear, a14 fuk.co.uk 5W4B8802

Relaxed fit suiting

speckled pebble grey three-piece suit

burgundy red,  half tuck shirt

(autumn collection 2014)

(image from fuk.co.uk)

…

ziggy chen, menswear, a15, layered, vk.com mIvMRiAq8-M

Layered levels

waistcoat-  slanted stripes

top-  angled rough finished hem

skirt-  box pleating

(autumn collection 2015)

(image from vk.com)

…

  ziggy chen, menswear, a15, long overcoat, side, saltandvinegarmag.com salt_and_vinegar_mag_mc-20140113-42616-480x700

ziggy chen, menswear, a14, long overcoat, front, button detail saltandvinegarmag.com salt_and_vinegar_mag_mc-20140113-42617

Charcoal grey overcoat

oversized, asymmetric hem, multi-button closure

(images from saltandvinegarmagazine.com)

 

…

ziggy chen, menswear, layering, skirt, lanecrawford.com BRAND_LANDING_PAGE_AW15_MW_Ziggy Chen

The Looks

tiered styling:   jacket, waistcoat, skirt, trousers

inverted-V  hems

subdued colour palette

casual cool, modern vibe

(image from lanecrawford.com)

…

 

 

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  • Yohji, Jr.? Meet designer Teppei Fujita of menswear label Sulvam
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