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Category Archives: jeans

“Japanese Denim” a made in Japan, inspired by the U.S. , styled in Japan fashion story line

17 Tuesday Nov 2015

Posted by meappropriatestyle in "Japanese denim", denim, denim-wear, fabrication, jeans

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Tags

"Japanese denim", classic denim design, denim, denim as fashion wear, denim fabrication, denim wear, John Bull Jenas, made in Japan, Oni Jeans, Samurai Jeans, selvedge denim, Visvim Jeans

 

 

From its humble beginnings as durable material for work-wear

to its evolution as high status fabrication for designer clothing

denim is lauded for its versatility:

for use in the creation of

an array of garments from head to toe (hats to shoes)

to a symbol of fashion democratisation, accessibility for all.

 

 

…

Then … workers’ wear

levi strauss, RR workers in strass overall, levistrausshd.yolasite.com

Denim overalls

working on the railroad

(image from yolastie.com)

 

…

 

Now … worn by all

jeans, democratization, hands up in the air, urbandarlin

Denim democratization

hands up in the air for denim!

(image from urbandarling.com)

…

With its appearance on the American clothing scene

in the mid-19th century

 

 

(thanks to the entrepreneur Levi Strauss

who established the first company to manufacture jeans

Levi Strauss & Co, San Francisco, California)

 

 

denim wear has been long associated with American fashion

until now.

 

…

Iconic denim brand

levi strauss, label. news,nd.edu

Levi Strauss & Co

company label illustrating denim wear as work wear

(image from new.nd.edu)

…

 

 

Creating singular denim wear has become a particular strength

of a few Japanese design labels

who have become expert in producing denim fabrication

of a vintage quality as inspired by classic Levi Strauss clothing.

The effect is achieved by adhering to traditional denim manufacturing:

producing a raw finish that softens over time as well as using

shuttle looms to produce “selvedge” denim-

tightly woven edges which  prevent fraying.

The look is classic denim.

 

…

Selvedge “edge”

in orange stitching

apanese denim, selvage denim, nudiejeans.com orange

(image from nudiejean.com)

…

The characteristic features of denim wear produced in Japan

have revived much interest in the

aesthetics of traditional denim attire .

This fashion phenomenon has evolved over the past decade plus and

is sometimes refered to as “Japanese denim”

and by the term more industry-wide recognised-

selvage denim.

…

The finished garments are wonderfully “old school” in look and feel.

…

A few “Japanese denim” brands

made in Japan, influenced by the U. S.

Traditional look

           Traditonal cut

                                   Traditional fabrication

by Samauri Jeans, Japan

apanese denim, samura jeans, global.rakuten.com

…

by John Bull, Japan

japanese denim by john bull, global.rakuten.com

…

by Oni Jeans

no fuss, no frills denim jacket

apanese denim, oni jeans, jean jacket, global.rakuten.com

(images by global.rakuten.com)

…

by Blue Blue Japan

worker-wear inspired

patchwork jacket

japanese denim by john bull, global.rakuten.com

(image from mrporter.com)

…

Some “Japanese denim” labels, such as

Visvim by designer Hiroki Nakamura-

imprint a local stamp on vintage effect denim

creating singular pieces, which integrate

elements of Japanese dress aesthetics

into the finished design.

The resulting look is of intricate detail and silhouette.

…

Some added extras

from Visvim

by designer Hiroki Nakamura

modelled by Hiroki Nakamura

japanese denim, visvim, denim shawl worn by visvim creative director, wgsn.com

Denim shawl of print and pattern

(image from wgsn.com)

…

japanese denim, visvim, padded jacket, mens Stylesight

Blue padded jacket with tan lining

(image from stylesight)

…

The price tag?

Not exactly a “democratizing” feature of this brand of denim wear.

However, the finished pieces are special garments warmly welcomed by

denim wear enthusiasts.

 

…

 

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A new aspect of denim dimension: meet French designer, Faustine Steinmetz

11 Wednesday Feb 2015

Posted by meappropriatestyle in denim, denim-wear, design inspiration, design inventive, design philosophy, emerging designers, fabrication, jeans, womenswear

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Tags

denim, denim design, denim fabrication, denim innovation, denim wear, fabrication, Faustine Steinmetz, Spring 2015

 

Faustine Steinmetz

is a designer with a new vision for denim fabrication.

A graduate of both The Atelier Chardon Savard, Paris

and Central Saint Martins, London-

she launched her label in 2013

With a clear artistic directive in mind and a loom in hand,

she has created a visually engaging look and texture to denim-wear.

 

…

 

(image from fashionsnap.com):

faustine steinmetz, portrait

“I think artisan techniques are my biggest source of inspiration.”

designer, Faustine Steinmetz

…

She states simply that,

“it’s all recycled denim that I’ve re-felted.”  (quote from vogue.co.uk)

Yet achieving the finished piece is anything but simple in execution.

Rather, it is a method expertly thought out and intricately constructed:

“Each fabric is solely handwoven by one person

using one of our traditional hand looms. 

Each piece is meticulously made by hand,

with some pieces taking over a week to weave.” 

(quote from faustinesteinmetz.com)

 

…

(image from joujouvilleroy.com):

faustine steinmetz, samples

Samples of denim fabric manipulations

…

 

Ms. Steinmetz’s approach to the design and fabrication

of denim-  a wardrobe staple –

is that of a true artisan:

hand-crafted, inventive, detailed and of singular beauty-

Masterful!

 

…

Faustine Steinmetz

S / S  ’15

(images from denimology.com):

faustine steinmetz, s 15faustine steinmetz, s '15faustine steinmetz, s '15

…

(image from fashionspyder.com):

faustine steinmetz, s 15

…

(image from wgsn.com):

faustine steinmetz, s '15

…

(image from beexposed.co.uk):

faustine steinmetz, s '15

…

 

(image from pinterest.com):

faustine steinmetz, s'15

 

…

(image from sleekmag.com):

faustine steinmetz, 's15

…

(image from pret-a-reporter.co.uk):

faustine steinmetz, s'15

…

(image from secondstreet.ru):

faustine steinmetz, s15

…

 

 

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That ’70s Fashion Show!

07 Saturday Feb 2015

Posted by meappropriatestyle in accessories, andro-chic style, casual wear, colour, colourspeak, denim-wear, design collaboration, design inspiration, design philosophy, dress dimension, fabric, fashion cultural reference, fashion fun, free to be me, gender-less fashon, hats, iconic garment, iconic shoe, jeans, knitwear, menswear, shoes... glorious shoes, signature piece, skirt season, trouser fashion, unisex wear, womenswear

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Tags

'70s fashion, '70s iconic fashion pieces, accessories, fashion as social statement, fashion history, flared trousers, gen, hats, hem lengths, miniskirt, music and fashion, platfrom shoes, shoes, unisex clothing, unisex fashion item

 

The 1970s was a decade which rocked the fashion world.

 

(getty images)

70s diso banner

Ushered in on the coat-tails of the ’60s hippie sartorial statement,

the ’70s evolved into an era of fashion flamboyance:

a melting and melding of influences from every global corner.

 

(image from vintagefashionclub.com):

afghan coat

Popular outerwear

’70s design interpretation of an Afghan coat

Called a posteen, it is the

traditional overcoat of Afghani tribes

…

 

 

It was an era of fervent political activism dominated by

increased anti-Vietnam War protests, anti-apartheid rallies

and the second wave in the surge of feminist advocacy.

Cries for global peace and people equality

were the earnest pleas of the ’70s generation.

 

(image from archive. library. illinois.edu):

70s fashion, anti vietnam war protests, archive.library.illinois.edu 0123

…

(image from culturaldiplomacy.org):

70s fashion, feminist movement, demonstrations, italian, culturaldiplomacy.org972d0fec625e21e8f2a404747ff1b72f

…

(image from pbslearningmedia.org):

70s fashion, feminist march, black women, pbslearningmedia.org.WETA_For_All_Women_Thumb.jpg.resize.710x399

 

 

…

It was the decade of dance floor decadence,

exaggerated at celebrity hotspot Studio 54 (NYC)

…

(image from guardian.com):

studio 54

…

(image from visforvintage.net):

studio 54

…

(image from youtube):

studio 54

…

It was a span of pure fashion fun

which spoke to the passions of a generation.

It was That ’70s Fashion Show.

 

…

A few people, garments, bits and things that made

the credit list of That ’70s Fashion Show:

…

Iconic Garments

Trouser-wear

During the high-stepping ’70s, trouser fashion had a definite leg up.

It is arguably the first decade during which women

uninhibitedly donned trousers for any occasion-  liberating!

 

(image from look.co.uk)

trouser suit, white, bianca jagger, heathrow, '72

White trouser suit

worn by Bianca Jagger at Heathrow Airport, 1972

 

…

Later in the decade, actor John Travolta donned a white suit

to make cinema history with a big scene on the big screen-

 disco-dancing in the movie Saturday Night Fever.

(image from telegraph.co.uk):

70s fashion john travolta

White trouser suiting

‘Staying Alive’ on the disco dance floor

actor, John Travolta in the movie Saturday Night Fever, 1977

 …

 

The jumpsuit was the trouser fashion one-piece wonder.

Worn by ladies and gents, it was the ultimate in unisex wear.

 

(images from wanken.com):

jumpsuit, unisex

jumpsuit, man

…

(image from inquirelive.co.uk):

jumpsuit, ladies, 70s

 

…

(image from tumblr.com):

strapless jumsuit

Strapless jumpsuit

worn by American model, Jerry Hall

…

Hot pants, which bared bottoms,

also had their moment in the spotlight.

 

(image from imgarcade.com):

 

hot pants

Hot pants sizzles on a pedestal

…

However, it was the flared (wide-leg)  trousers

which became synonymous with ’70s fashion.

 

(from getty images):

hot pants, flares

Hot pants ensemble (l)

Embroidered flares (r)

…

 

(image from airmech.co.uk):

flared trousers

…

(image from weheartvintage):

flared trousers/platform shoes

…

(image from zuzufabio):

ladies in flares, cropped tops

Cropped tops and flared trousers

 

…

Jeans were worn tight, tighter, and tighter still.

(image from flashback.com):

70s fashion, skinny jeans, ladies, flashbak.com vintage-slacks-10

…

(image from duke.edu):

70s fashion, men, hair_flares, duke.edu Brother-Bait

…

 

Trouser fashion combined with the free-spirited vibe of the era,

lent itself to unisex design and styling.

 

'70s unisex fashion

 

…

Mini, Midi, Maxi – More

Skirt hem lengths were a barometer of ’70s attitude:

up,  down and everything in between.

…

Introduced in the late 1960s,

purportedly by British designer Mary Quant-

the ’70s saw the mini hem inch its way further up the knee.

…

(from favimages.net):

mini hem length

…

(from 70sfashion.org):

mini dresses

…

mini skirt, over knee boots

Mini lengths accessorised with over the knee leather boots

…

 

The calf-length midi and floor-sweeping maxi

were also en vogue skirt length options.

…

(image from studyblue.com):

midi lengths

Midi- lengths

…

(image from sammydvintage.com):

70s fashion, maxi, trousers, mini

Graphic maxi and fashion pals (from l to r)

trouser suiting, mini skirt, maxi, and mini dress

…

(image from flickrhivemind.net):

70s fashion, maxi skirt

…

(image from sueddetusche.de):

maxi length wtih fringe hem

Maxi- length with fringe hem

…

(image from vanityfair.com):

skirts, to knee

And of course, hem-length to knee!

…

There was no skirting the issue:

the ’70s was a decade of fashion variety-

imbued with a little bit of everything.

…

Topsy Turvy

For the ladies, tops ran the gamut from the flowy peasant blouse-

inherited from the ’60s hippie fashion scene,

to the stretchy tight tube top trend.

Whatever suited ones fancy.

…

(from favimages.net):

peasant blouse, maxi skirt

Peasant blouse

…

(image from pixgood):

tube top

Tube top

…

crop top, flared striped trousers, mary quant, 71

Cropped, striped halter top, matching flared trousers

and platform shoes (1971)

by designer Mary Quant

…

Men, shunned solid colours, and embraced patterned shirt designs with

every conceivable geometric shape and imaginable psychedelic swirl.

…

(from atomretro.com):

mens psychedelic shirtsmens psychedelic shirt

Kaleidoscopic effect

…

Whatever the garment, prints and patterns were central motifs .

(image from umich.edu):

70s trouser suiting

…

Designing Visions

There were several innovative designers whose clothing

seem to capture the prevailing social sentiments:

inclusivity, global awareness and global peace.

…

Fashion label, political tag

by Diane Von Furstenberg

Designed by Diane Von Furstenberg in 1972

the wrap dress seemed to fashion represent qualities expressed

by the then women’s movement:

unambiguous in intent, universal in appeal.

The DVF wrap dress became an iconic garment:

cut to compliment any size, any shape-

an “I’m Every Woman’ piece.

(image from fashionschooldaily.com):

DVF, wrap dress

…

Following a moral compass

by agnès b

French designer, agnès b (née Agnès Andrée Marguerite Troublé)

launched her clothing label in 1973.

Ever the idealist, she vowed

never to advertise-

considering it “immoral” to do so;

never to manufacture her clothing outside of France-

in effort to avoid participation in exploiting foreign labourers.

She promoted an idea of “democratic fashion”,

an accessibility of style choices.

Her design philosophy mirrored social sentiments of the time.

 

(from agnès b.com):

agnes b, striped t shirt

Signature piece from agnès b

simple, striped, fashion-accessible cotton t-short

 

…

World Wide Fashion

by Kenzo

No one fused various ethnic elements into clothing constructs

better than Japanese designer, Kenzo Takada.

His collections on the Paris runway,

were an eclectic, cosmopolitan style.

(image from kenzoparfums.com):

kenzo, ethnic influences

Of global perspective

…

Fashion Romanticism

by designer Bill Gibb

and knitwear master Kaffe Fassett

 

Scottish designer Bill Gibb and American textile artist Kaffe Fassett

collaborated to create clothing, which embodied key ’70s leitmotif:

colourful, romantic, exotic.

To the design equation,

Gibb factored in the element of romance, fantasy

and Fassett ignited the colour explosion.

…

by designer Bill Gibb

(image from redlist.com):

bill gibb dress

Of romantic fairy-tales

…

(image from vam.org):

bill gibb, drawing

…

bill gibb, leather and sequin

Leather and sequins

…

(image from bee and lotus):

bill gibb and kaffe fassett, vest, knit

Knit vest

by Bill Gibb and Kaffe Fassett

…

(image from moon and buddha):

gibb and fassett, a/w 75-76

Double breast knit maxi coat, a/w ’75 – ’76

by Bill Gibb and Kaffe Fassett

…

(image from handandeyemagazine.com):

kaffe fassett, knit, full length jumper

Full length jumper

by Kaffe Fassett

…

 

Accessorise me

At the bottom:  it’s a shoe in

The accessory of the decade was a pair of  platform shoes.

In the early 1970s platform shoes started with a quite slim sole.

As the decade progressed, this moved from ¼ inch up to about 4 inches-

an elevated status.

Worn with a pair of flared trousers, this look became

the iconic fashion image of the decade.

(image from topyaps.com):

platform shoes

…

(image from wmagazine.com):

platform shoes

…

 

(image from bbc.co.uk):

flares and platform shoes

Flares and platforms

…

(image from nzhistory.net):

flared jumpsuit, men, platforms

Flared leg jumpsuit and platform shoes

…

On top:  floppy hats

(image from examiner.com):

floppy hats

Made of felt wool, with or without a band

the floppy hat was s ’70s hat wear of choice

…

 

The ’70s fashion was invitation to a Mad Hatter’s Tea:

exciting, emotive, outrageous, surreal.

It was a time of a fashion revolution,

polyester ruled fabrication and bright colours held court.

There were ups and downs in hemlines;

a range of light-fit and loose-fit attire-

all elevated on platform shoes.

 

…

It was a monster mishmash of ideas.

It was fashion fun and then some.

 

…

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Jean-nious: a denim chronology

04 Thursday Apr 2013

Posted by meappropriatestyle in denim, denim-wear, history notes, jeans, ready to wear, trouser fashion

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Bridgitte Bardot in jeans, denim-wear in art, denim-wear in films, jeans as fashion staple, jeans as fashion statement, jeans as work clothes, Marilyn Monroe in The Misfits, Marlon Brando in The Wild One, Montgomery Clift in The Misfits, origins of denim, The Master of the Blue Jeans

Jeans

the wardrobe staple of contemporary dress

has a long history which can be traced back to the mid 17th century and

the works of an anonymous Italian artist, referred to by art historians as

‘The Master of the Blue Jeans’

His paintings depict people wearing clothing

of a dark blue coarse material reminiscent of modern denim.

…

By the Master of the Blue Jeans;

‘Young boy in denim jacket’

(image from dailymail.co.uk)

…

‘Women in denim over-skirt

sewing with two children’

denim in art, women sewing with two children, master of the blue jeans, dailymail article

(image from dailymail.co.uk)

…

‘Women in denim skirt’

(image from msn.com)

…

So, did denim material originate in Italy as wear for the working/poorer people?

Or, as some hypothesise in Nimes, France

from which the word denim probably stems?

Or, with continued research might evidence be discovered to reveal that

denim-wear predates the 17th century?

…

Time travel forward to the mid-20th century

and to various regions of the U.S.A

the midwest:  where jeans were the costume de rigueur

of the American cowboy.

(image from nationmaster.com)

…

 Parts of California:  where jeans were the apparel for miners

(image from legendsofamerica.com)

…

Rural Mississippi:  where jeans were worn by sharecroppers

(image from sunflowerplantation.blogspot.com)

…

As rendered in the paintings of  The Master of the Blue Jeans

jeans were originally work garb.

…

Then along came Hollywood costumiers who robed the stars in denim

bestowing upon the meagre jeans … celebrity status:

rugged, bad boy biker  Marlon Brando in The Wild One (1953)

…

 Bad boy on and off-screen

Marlon Brando

…

Screen siren Marilyn Monroe

(image from guardian.co.uk )

…

 Squared-jawed actor

the handsome Montgomery Clift

montgomery cliftin denim the misfitsMV5BMTY3ODk0MTQ1N15BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwNTEzODI1NA_V1_SX640_SY781__zps3a043069


…

European beauty, the actress Bridgitte Bardot

(image from instyle.com)

…

From where ever stems its origins

denim the hard-working material

has certainly weathered the fashion storm

and jeans the ubiquitous trouser made from its cut

has emerged a wardrobe basic of cow-hands to glam stars.

…

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