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Category Archives: iconic garment

A modern twist on the traditional: Mr. Santa Claus gets a fashion forward update. Ho! Ho! Ho-ttie!

14 Monday Dec 2015

Posted by meappropriatestyle in fashion and history, fashion news, iconic garment, iconic image, seasonal fashion, signature look

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'Sartorial Santa', fashion icon, fashion Santa, iconic image, modern Santa, traditional images of Santa Claus, Yorkdale Mall- Toronto Canada

 

 

Is there a new look of a Santa to come?

Is the image of ‘ye ole Santa Claus’, one of Christmas past?

Is Santa of Christmas present evolving into

an avant garde fashionisto?

 

…

It may well be so-

at least at the Yorkdale Mall in Toronto, Canada

where for the last two years, this shopping centre has employed

fashion model, Paul Mason as its Santa Claus.

Mr. Mason is anything but,  a traditional Mr. Claus.

 

 

…

Santa Claus as more commonly envisioned:

The ‘chimney entrance and exit’  jolly, chubby man

in red suit and stocking cap

wide width black belt / shiny gold buckle

with bag filled with toys

santa-claus, vintage santa, fineartamerica.com

(image from fineartamerica.com)

…

 

The  Santa Claus of the Yorkdale Mall, Toronto Canada

as portrayed by Paul Mason is

high fashion attired

slim build

elegantly coiffed

and exudes a bit of ‘bad boy’ attitude

definitely a Sartorial Santa-

a bit of the naughty mixed with the nice.

 

…

Sartorial Santa

A modern interpretation of a classic icon

Paul Mason

a Sartorial Santa for a Couture Christmas

appearing this holiday season at The Yorkdale Mall, Toronto Canada

satorial santa, gqcom fashion-santa-toronto

(image from gq.com)

…

Paul Mason

A Trapper John-esque Sartorial Santa

satorial santa, journal-news.com

(image from journal-news.com)

…

Paul Mason

A new vision on red/white Santa suiting:

white coat/ trousers, red accessories

red high top trainers

a ‘monster face’ hand-held carrier (not a sack in sight!)

satorial santa, gq fashion-santa-2015

(image from gq.com)

…

Yet, there remains something quite endearing about

the traditional images of Santa Claus and “jolly ole St. Nicholas”.

…

Vintage  Santas

St.  Nicolas

Greek bishop who became

a 4th century saint

renown for his secret gift giving

became the standard on which Santa Claus is modelled

feast day is 6 December

santa claus, vintage santa, st_nicolas, wall.org

 (image from wall-org.com)

…

In traditional Finnish costume

santa claus, traditional finnish costume. kids.britannica.com

(image from kids-britannica.com)

…

santa claus, traditional santa, inspirational-quotes-cafe.com

(image from inspirational-quotes-cafe.com)

…

Loved and anticipated by children

santa claus, traditional santa, palestiniansurprises.com 20110126102558_1_3086593286_d2187f843e

(image from palestiniansurprises.com)

…

Surely,  there is room for additional Santa variants.

With this year’s repeat appearance of Sartorial Santa,

these new ‘Santas’ are not necessarily kiddie focused,

but are geared more towards adult audience appeal.

 

 

…

Ho!  Ho!  Ho-ttie!

satorial santa, 365news.biz

(image from 365news.biz)

…

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That ’70s Fashion Show!

07 Saturday Feb 2015

Posted by meappropriatestyle in accessories, andro-chic style, casual wear, colour, colourspeak, denim-wear, design collaboration, design inspiration, design philosophy, dress dimension, fabric, fashion cultural reference, fashion fun, free to be me, gender-less fashon, hats, iconic garment, iconic shoe, jeans, knitwear, menswear, shoes... glorious shoes, signature piece, skirt season, trouser fashion, unisex wear, womenswear

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'70s fashion, '70s iconic fashion pieces, accessories, fashion as social statement, fashion history, flared trousers, gen, hats, hem lengths, miniskirt, music and fashion, platfrom shoes, shoes, unisex clothing, unisex fashion item

 

The 1970s was a decade which rocked the fashion world.

 

(getty images)

70s diso banner

Ushered in on the coat-tails of the ’60s hippie sartorial statement,

the ’70s evolved into an era of fashion flamboyance:

a melting and melding of influences from every global corner.

 

(image from vintagefashionclub.com):

afghan coat

Popular outerwear

’70s design interpretation of an Afghan coat

Called a posteen, it is the

traditional overcoat of Afghani tribes

…

 

 

It was an era of fervent political activism dominated by

increased anti-Vietnam War protests, anti-apartheid rallies

and the second wave in the surge of feminist advocacy.

Cries for global peace and people equality

were the earnest pleas of the ’70s generation.

 

(image from archive. library. illinois.edu):

70s fashion, anti vietnam war protests, archive.library.illinois.edu 0123

…

(image from culturaldiplomacy.org):

70s fashion, feminist movement, demonstrations, italian, culturaldiplomacy.org972d0fec625e21e8f2a404747ff1b72f

…

(image from pbslearningmedia.org):

70s fashion, feminist march, black women, pbslearningmedia.org.WETA_For_All_Women_Thumb.jpg.resize.710x399

 

 

…

It was the decade of dance floor decadence,

exaggerated at celebrity hotspot Studio 54 (NYC)

…

(image from guardian.com):

studio 54

…

(image from visforvintage.net):

studio 54

…

(image from youtube):

studio 54

…

It was a span of pure fashion fun

which spoke to the passions of a generation.

It was That ’70s Fashion Show.

 

…

A few people, garments, bits and things that made

the credit list of That ’70s Fashion Show:

…

Iconic Garments

Trouser-wear

During the high-stepping ’70s, trouser fashion had a definite leg up.

It is arguably the first decade during which women

uninhibitedly donned trousers for any occasion-  liberating!

 

(image from look.co.uk)

trouser suit, white, bianca jagger, heathrow, '72

White trouser suit

worn by Bianca Jagger at Heathrow Airport, 1972

 

…

Later in the decade, actor John Travolta donned a white suit

to make cinema history with a big scene on the big screen-

 disco-dancing in the movie Saturday Night Fever.

(image from telegraph.co.uk):

70s fashion john travolta

White trouser suiting

‘Staying Alive’ on the disco dance floor

actor, John Travolta in the movie Saturday Night Fever, 1977

 …

 

The jumpsuit was the trouser fashion one-piece wonder.

Worn by ladies and gents, it was the ultimate in unisex wear.

 

(images from wanken.com):

jumpsuit, unisex

jumpsuit, man

…

(image from inquirelive.co.uk):

jumpsuit, ladies, 70s

 

…

(image from tumblr.com):

strapless jumsuit

Strapless jumpsuit

worn by American model, Jerry Hall

…

Hot pants, which bared bottoms,

also had their moment in the spotlight.

 

(image from imgarcade.com):

 

hot pants

Hot pants sizzles on a pedestal

…

However, it was the flared (wide-leg)  trousers

which became synonymous with ’70s fashion.

 

(from getty images):

hot pants, flares

Hot pants ensemble (l)

Embroidered flares (r)

…

 

(image from airmech.co.uk):

flared trousers

…

(image from weheartvintage):

flared trousers/platform shoes

…

(image from zuzufabio):

ladies in flares, cropped tops

Cropped tops and flared trousers

 

…

Jeans were worn tight, tighter, and tighter still.

(image from flashback.com):

70s fashion, skinny jeans, ladies, flashbak.com vintage-slacks-10

…

(image from duke.edu):

70s fashion, men, hair_flares, duke.edu Brother-Bait

…

 

Trouser fashion combined with the free-spirited vibe of the era,

lent itself to unisex design and styling.

 

'70s unisex fashion

 

…

Mini, Midi, Maxi – More

Skirt hem lengths were a barometer of ’70s attitude:

up,  down and everything in between.

…

Introduced in the late 1960s,

purportedly by British designer Mary Quant-

the ’70s saw the mini hem inch its way further up the knee.

…

(from favimages.net):

mini hem length

…

(from 70sfashion.org):

mini dresses

…

mini skirt, over knee boots

Mini lengths accessorised with over the knee leather boots

…

 

The calf-length midi and floor-sweeping maxi

were also en vogue skirt length options.

…

(image from studyblue.com):

midi lengths

Midi- lengths

…

(image from sammydvintage.com):

70s fashion, maxi, trousers, mini

Graphic maxi and fashion pals (from l to r)

trouser suiting, mini skirt, maxi, and mini dress

…

(image from flickrhivemind.net):

70s fashion, maxi skirt

…

(image from sueddetusche.de):

maxi length wtih fringe hem

Maxi- length with fringe hem

…

(image from vanityfair.com):

skirts, to knee

And of course, hem-length to knee!

…

There was no skirting the issue:

the ’70s was a decade of fashion variety-

imbued with a little bit of everything.

…

Topsy Turvy

For the ladies, tops ran the gamut from the flowy peasant blouse-

inherited from the ’60s hippie fashion scene,

to the stretchy tight tube top trend.

Whatever suited ones fancy.

…

(from favimages.net):

peasant blouse, maxi skirt

Peasant blouse

…

(image from pixgood):

tube top

Tube top

…

crop top, flared striped trousers, mary quant, 71

Cropped, striped halter top, matching flared trousers

and platform shoes (1971)

by designer Mary Quant

…

Men, shunned solid colours, and embraced patterned shirt designs with

every conceivable geometric shape and imaginable psychedelic swirl.

…

(from atomretro.com):

mens psychedelic shirtsmens psychedelic shirt

Kaleidoscopic effect

…

Whatever the garment, prints and patterns were central motifs .

(image from umich.edu):

70s trouser suiting

…

Designing Visions

There were several innovative designers whose clothing

seem to capture the prevailing social sentiments:

inclusivity, global awareness and global peace.

…

Fashion label, political tag

by Diane Von Furstenberg

Designed by Diane Von Furstenberg in 1972

the wrap dress seemed to fashion represent qualities expressed

by the then women’s movement:

unambiguous in intent, universal in appeal.

The DVF wrap dress became an iconic garment:

cut to compliment any size, any shape-

an “I’m Every Woman’ piece.

(image from fashionschooldaily.com):

DVF, wrap dress

…

Following a moral compass

by agnès b

French designer, agnès b (née Agnès Andrée Marguerite Troublé)

launched her clothing label in 1973.

Ever the idealist, she vowed

never to advertise-

considering it “immoral” to do so;

never to manufacture her clothing outside of France-

in effort to avoid participation in exploiting foreign labourers.

She promoted an idea of “democratic fashion”,

an accessibility of style choices.

Her design philosophy mirrored social sentiments of the time.

 

(from agnès b.com):

agnes b, striped t shirt

Signature piece from agnès b

simple, striped, fashion-accessible cotton t-short

 

…

World Wide Fashion

by Kenzo

No one fused various ethnic elements into clothing constructs

better than Japanese designer, Kenzo Takada.

His collections on the Paris runway,

were an eclectic, cosmopolitan style.

(image from kenzoparfums.com):

kenzo, ethnic influences

Of global perspective

…

Fashion Romanticism

by designer Bill Gibb

and knitwear master Kaffe Fassett

 

Scottish designer Bill Gibb and American textile artist Kaffe Fassett

collaborated to create clothing, which embodied key ’70s leitmotif:

colourful, romantic, exotic.

To the design equation,

Gibb factored in the element of romance, fantasy

and Fassett ignited the colour explosion.

…

by designer Bill Gibb

(image from redlist.com):

bill gibb dress

Of romantic fairy-tales

…

(image from vam.org):

bill gibb, drawing

…

bill gibb, leather and sequin

Leather and sequins

…

(image from bee and lotus):

bill gibb and kaffe fassett, vest, knit

Knit vest

by Bill Gibb and Kaffe Fassett

…

(image from moon and buddha):

gibb and fassett, a/w 75-76

Double breast knit maxi coat, a/w ’75 – ’76

by Bill Gibb and Kaffe Fassett

…

(image from handandeyemagazine.com):

kaffe fassett, knit, full length jumper

Full length jumper

by Kaffe Fassett

…

 

Accessorise me

At the bottom:  it’s a shoe in

The accessory of the decade was a pair of  platform shoes.

In the early 1970s platform shoes started with a quite slim sole.

As the decade progressed, this moved from ¼ inch up to about 4 inches-

an elevated status.

Worn with a pair of flared trousers, this look became

the iconic fashion image of the decade.

(image from topyaps.com):

platform shoes

…

(image from wmagazine.com):

platform shoes

…

 

(image from bbc.co.uk):

flares and platform shoes

Flares and platforms

…

(image from nzhistory.net):

flared jumpsuit, men, platforms

Flared leg jumpsuit and platform shoes

…

On top:  floppy hats

(image from examiner.com):

floppy hats

Made of felt wool, with or without a band

the floppy hat was s ’70s hat wear of choice

…

 

The ’70s fashion was invitation to a Mad Hatter’s Tea:

exciting, emotive, outrageous, surreal.

It was a time of a fashion revolution,

polyester ruled fabrication and bright colours held court.

There were ups and downs in hemlines;

a range of light-fit and loose-fit attire-

all elevated on platform shoes.

 

…

It was a monster mishmash of ideas.

It was fashion fun and then some.

 

…

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DVF: knowing the woman you want to be

17 Monday Nov 2014

Posted by meappropriatestyle in fashion cultural reference, fashion discussion, fashion events, iconic garment, in conversation with

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Diane von Furstenberg, in conversation with, jersey wrap dress, Victoria and Albert Museum

I recently had the pleasure of attending

a talk with designer Diane von Furstenberg in which she discussed

her remarkable career in conversation with Claudia Croft,

style editor of the Sunday Times (London).

The event was held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

 

…

(photos by meappropriatestyle.com):

V and A event, DVF

Designer Diane von Furstenberg (r)

in conversation with journalist Claudia Croft (l)

…

V and A, DVF event

An impressive turn out

…

V and A, DVF event

Ms. von Furstenberg (seated)

 

…

This year marks the 40th anniversary of the iconic wrap dress-

the garment created by Ms. von Furstenberg

which is a universal:  for every shape, for every size, for every woman.

 

…

(images from dvf.com):

 wrap dress, green print, dvf.com canvas

jersey wrap dress

green / white graphic print

…

wrap dress, trousers, dvf,dvf.com  canvas

wrap dress / trouser combo

…

Speaking at length, candidly and in detail, Ms. von Furstenberg

discussed a key individual who and a key determinant which

were of profound life influence:

1.  her mother,  a Holocaust-Auschwitz concentration camp survivor

who instilled in her daughter the steely power of fortitude and

2.  her set decision to be a self-sufficient woman

…

After her first marriage at 18 to German Prince Egon of Furstenberg,

she was styled Her Serene Highness Princess Diane of Furstenberg

Yet, she was never content to simply marry her prince and

live in golden bliss, happily ever after.

She studied, worked,  trained and eventually created a wardrobe masterpiece.

…

DVF, wrap dress, purple

jersey wrap dress

solid colour, solid statement

…

The immediate success in 1974, of her jersey wrap dress

and its lasting impact has established Ms. von Furstenberg

as one of fashion’s design greats.

Today, she oversees a thriving business concern.

Presently, Forbes magazine ranks Ms. von Furstenberg

as the 68th most powerful woman in the world.

She is also involved with several philanthropic projects.

…

 

At the conclusion of her conversation with journalist Claudia Croft,

Ms. von Furstenberg graciously answered queries.

I was struck by the focus of the questions posed and comments made.

All wanted to know more about how to become

a ‘Diane-type empowered woman’.

…

Ms. von Furstenberg’s design legacy is the wrap dress- for all women.

Her legacy of indelible spirit is also for all women.

It can be summed up in a statement

which she reiterated throughout the talk:

“I did not know what I wanted to do,

but I KNEW the woman I wanted to be.”

 

(image from dailymail.com):

DVF, thumbs up

DVF:  two thumbs up!

End of runway show, s/s  2014

…

It appears that Ms. von Furstenberg achieved all she intended.

.

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Mark your diary! An exhibition on the iconic Mexican garment: the rebozo

01 Sunday Jun 2014

Posted by meappropriatestyle in accessories, exhibitions, fashion cultural reference, history notes, iconic garment, mark your diary

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Fashion and Textile Museum, Frida Kahlo, Kaffe Fassett, Mark your diary, modern fashion item, rebozos, shawls/scarves, summer exhibitions - 2014, traditional Mexican dress, Zandra Rhodes

The rebozo

is a garment of  immense cultural relevance,

embodying an intense sentiment of Mexican identification.

…

For centuries, worn by women as shawls and/or scarves,

they are handmade from wool, silk or cotton

weaved into an array of colours:

solid,  multi-coloured and patterned.

…

Historic roots

Wearing the rebozo dates back in time to colonial Mexico.

It is mentioned in the 16th century by Fray Diego Duran

as a luxury item worn by  affluent women.

During the 18th century legislation dictated the

size, design, threading and knitting of the rebozo.

…

 Yet the rebozo evolved into a garment of beauty and garment of purpose,

worn by women of all social classes,

 as decorative dress piece as well as infant sling.

…

(image from rebozohistory):

rebozohistory

…

Traditionally, it required at least two persons

to make a rebozo:

a weaver and a fringe-maker (an empuntador).

Men did the weaving on looms, and the women

completed the fringe work, which could involve

 intricate pattern designing techniques.

…

(image from focusonmexico.com):

rebozo weavertomassilva-rebozo

at the loom

…

(image from visitmexico.com):

rebozo visitmexicocomphotoEscudo_Rebozo_de_telar_de_pedal_EMPUNTADO_MAIN

an empuntadora at fringe work

…

Depending on the desired scope of detail,

it could take a few months

to hand make a single rebozo.

…

The Fashion and Textile Museum, London

will present the exhibition,

Made in Mexico:  The Rebozo in Art, Culture and Fashion

which will explore the rebozo as garment of traditional dress and

garment of cultural import, worn by

revolutionaries, every day folks and artists alike.

…

Acclaimed Mexican surrealist artist Frida Kahlo  (1907 – 1954)

was often shown wearing a rebozo in paintings / photographs

and styled in the garment in many of her self portraits.

Thanks in part to these images, the rebozo maintains instant recognisability.

…

Frida Kahlo and the rebozo

(images from nickolasmuray.com):

rebozo frida muraycom_02-540s rebozo frida by nickolas muraycom_01-540s rebozo frida by nickolasmuraycom_05-540s

photographic images of the artist Frida Kahlo

taken by her lover,  the photographer Nickolas Muray

…

(image from nmwa.org):

rebozo kahlo self portrat from nmwaorg2.2.2.x-collection-full-image-kahlo-self_portrait

self portrait by Frida Kahlo, 1937

dedicated to Leon Trotsky (in recognition of their brief love affair)

…

The Rebozo in paintings

(image from warchild13.com):

rebozo painting warchild13com unknown artistMujer_con_Rebozo_Azul-tm

Mujer con rebozo azul (Woman with blue rebozo)

by an Unknown artist

…

rebozo painting by jose julio gaona wikipedia150px-InviernoenlaciudadRDFeb84

Invierno en la cuidad  (Winter in the city)

by the artist Jose Julio Gaona

…

The cultural symbolism of the rebozo has featured not only in paintings

but also in works of poetry.

(image of book jacket and quote from wingpress.com):

 Rebozos poems by carmen tafolla_jacket-web

Inspired by the paintings of Carolina Garate Garcia,

these poems by Carmen Tafolla present the rebozo as:

.

“(a)n essential element of daily life for centuries, one might say it is a physical manifestation of Mexican womanhood a silent witness to every state of life: a tool of daily labor, a sling to carry children, a shield from weather or from prying eyes, finally either an heirloom or a shroud. At the same time, the manner of its wearing can express every emotion, from shy seduction to sorrow, from flaunted status to simple joys and fears.”

…

The rebozo remains a prestige piece of cultural significance and

today is worn also as popular fashion statement accessory.

It is of rooted fashion foundation:

an iconic garment of then and now.

…

(image from uruapanymas.mx)

rebozoon runway from uruapanymas.mx1

the rebozo on the runway

…

The exhibition at the FTM will also explore

modern interprets on this iconic piece as

offered by contemporary fashion designers and artists,

including, among others, that of the FTM  founder

British designer, Zandra Rhodes and

renown American knitwear and textile designer, Kaffe Fassett.

…

(image from mayaescobar.com):

rebozo modern mayaescobarcommodeling tallit rebozo

a modern twist on tradition

…

Viva el rebozo … Hecho en Mexico!

rebozo facebook1498788_10152483238398824_1646396893276024285_o

Fashion and Textile Museum, London

until 30 August 2014

For further details visit the FTM website at

http://ftmlondon.org/ftm-exhibitions/made-in-mexico-the-rebozo-in-art-culture-fashion/

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The miniskirt: Happy 50th birthday!

06 Tuesday May 2014

Posted by meappropriatestyle in for all seasons, free to be me, history notes, iconic garment, meapp memo

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

1964, 50th birthday of miniskirt, iconic garment, Mary Quant, miniskirt

British designer, Mary Quant

is recognised as an individual

who revolutionised women’s dress,

and marked a critical point in fashion history.

…

While experimenting with hemlines, in 1964 she introduced the

miniskirt

a garment which freed women from an archaic definition of

what was considered proper attire.

…

(image from galleryhip.com):

miniskirt twiggy galleryhip.com

the face / the look of fashion 60s:

the model:  Twiggy

the garment:  the miniskirt

…

The miniskirt embodied the era from which it sprung:

an age of social and political activism-

a determined stance against the status quo.

…

(image from blogspot.stockton.edu):

 60s activisim blogspot.stockton.eduWomens-Lib-protesters-divorce-marriage

…

(image from thethoughtsithink.wordpress.com):

activism thethoughtsithink.wordpress.comwomens-march

…

The impact of the miniskirt

was not limited to the fashion community, but

sent shock waves through world at large.

To this day, it is a symbol of defiance.

(image from theguardian.com):

'Mini-skirt ban' protest in Kampala, Uganda.

Woman protesting against miniskirt ban 

and sexual harrasment in Ugando, East Africa, February 2014

…

(quote from walesonline.co.uk;

image from thetimes.co.uk):

Yet, originally there was an element of pure function to the design:

“I had myself in mind when I designed it.

I liked my skirts short

because I wanted to run

and catch the bus to get to work-

It was that feeling of freedom and liberation.”

mary quant 76 in 2010 times.co.uk

designer, Mary Quant in 2010

…

The miniskirt has gained iconic status

and has remained fashion au courant

…

Miniskirts circa 2014

(image from halliedaily.com):

Processed with VSCOcam with f2 preset

…

(image from just the design.com):

miniskirt justthedesign,comStreet-Style52

…

The miniskirt:  here’s to another 50 years!

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Action … take one: UK cinematic release of ‘Yves Saint Laurent’

19 Wednesday Mar 2014

Posted by meappropriatestyle in design experimentation, design inventive, design philosophy, fashion debate, fashion discussion, iconic garment, signature piece, trouser fashion

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

biopic, cinema release, movie - 'Yves Saint Laurent', UK movie release 2014, Yves Saint Laurent - comments on employing Black models, Yves Saint Laurent - tribute

The UK release of the much anticipated biopic

‘Yves Saint Laurent’

opens this Friday, 21 March 2014.

The movie is one of two films out this year,

which chronicles the life of this celebrated fashion designer:

the good, the bad and the ugly.

…

This first to be released –  ‘Yves Saint Laurent’  (UK opening 21 March)

has the blessing of Pierre Berge

(M. Saint Laurent’s partner in business and life),

who extensively collaborated with the movie’s production team.

The rival film ‘Saint Laurent’,  due out later this year,

and not endorsed by M. Berge,

 is backed by Kering the business concern, which

ironically owns the Saint Laurent brand .

…

The very beginning

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent

was born in Oran, French Algeria – 1936.

He was the eldest of three,

having two younger sisters and mother

who all would encourage his artistic sensibilities.

…

Although there was this familial support for

his budding design interests,

he was terribly bullied at school for being:

creative, bespectacled, studious,

slight and lacking athletic prowess.

It is reported that he once said,

“I didn’t have what it took to be a boy.”

…

He certainly had all of what it took to become a fashion great:

an inventive vision

an appreciation / an understanding of the female form

a talent for creating clothing of a seductive, modern quality

a defiance which challenged the norm /  the expected.

…

The beginning of an illustrious career 

He began his design career under the tutelage

of French couturier Christian Dior.

So impressed was M. Dior with the young designer

that he named Yves Saint Laurent as his successor.

A position which M. Saint Laurent fulfilled in 1957

at the young age of 21.

From that starting point he proceeded to make

an indelible mark on the canvass of fashion design.

..

The iconic piece

 Coco Chanel empowered women in wearing trousers,

and it was Yves Saint Laurent who

deftly adapted menswear lines to a woman’s body

in designing of minimalist,  androgynous,  trouser fashion –

entrez … Le Smoking.

(image from pure trend.com):

Le Smoking by Yves Saint Laurent, 1966

…

His private life was however,  fraught with incredible challenges:

drug abuse/addiction, sexual promiscuity, mental health issues.

As with many exceptional creatives, he was somewhat

of a tortured soul – giving of his art, but not of himself …

“I’m so secluded.  Very alone.”

…

Yet from the depth of his inner contemplative space,

Yves Saint Laurent created fashion magic.

He remains one of the industry’s  greatest luminaries.

His designs changed the landscape of

women’s wearable clothing and couture fashion.

His, was a modern perspective:

forward-looking in design as well as in attitude.

He is recognised as the first major designer

to use Black as well as Asian models

for runway presentation and muse reference.

…

Alas, the under-representation of models of colour remains

an issue of discussion and debate within the fashion industry.

Clearly, M. Saint Laurent was light years ahead of the curve …

Hedi Slimane –  current creative director of the YSL label –

please take note.

…

Yves Saint Laurent   …  on working with Black models

…

It is of no surprise that M. Saint Laurent’s life story

is focus for two concurrent film ventures.

His fashion/design legacy is unparalleled.

Long may it continue to

 captivate,  inspire,  inform

…

(image from dirty-mag.com):

Yves Saint Laurent  …  final retrospective show

Centre Georges Pompidou 2002

…

Yves Saint Laurent   …  in tribute

 

designer Yves Saint Lauren, 1936 – 2008

…

 

‘Yves Saint Laurent’

starring Pierre Niney as Yves Saint Laurent

UK release Friday, 21 March 2014

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M. Paul Poiret, c’est vous? … No, but meet designer Natalie Capell

09 Sunday Feb 2014

Posted by meappropriatestyle in accessories, avant garde, Barcelona Fashion Week, coats, creative headdress, design inspiration, design inventive, fabric blends, fashion and politics, fashion cultural reference, iconic garment, signature piece, trouser fashion

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Tags

autumn/winter 2014, Barcelona Fashion Week - a/w 2014, column dress, Natalie Capell, orientalist influences, Paul Poiret - aesthetics, structural hats, womenswear

 For her Autumn/Winter 2014  collection

(presented at Barcelona Fashion Week)

designer Natalie Capell

Natalie Capell

offered a silhouette wonderfully reminiscent

of the creations of Paul Poiret,

“Le Magnifique” as he was known in Paris

(and as “The King of Fashion” in the United States).

…

Then … Paul Poiret

One of the greatest designers of the twentieth century

 Paul Poiret (1879 – 1944)

was a fashion visionary and marketing strategist –

unconventional, radical, pioneering.

(image from examiner.com):

Poiret at work

…

Initially working in famous ateliers (including that of Charles Worth),

M. Poiret establishing his own concern in 1903,

revolutionised fashion design by creating a new silhouette –

one which liberated the body from constrictions

inflicted by the debilitating corset and the unnatural S-shaped contours.

M. Poiret’s creations celebrated freedom:

of movement for the wearer

of  innovation for the designer.

(image from http://www.theatreoffashion.com):

…

(images from http://www.metmuseum.org):

…

…

(image from victoriana.com):

Poiret

Poiret evening dress, (circa 1914)

…

His designs of ‘body liberation’ coincided with

the first-wave of the feminist movement (beginning of the 20th C.)

(image from tchevalier.com):

which ushered in a socio/political, world-wide campaign

to improve women’s status.

Was M. Poiret a fashion innovator responding to societal change ?

Most probably so – given the genius of M. Poiret

in design and in marketability,

which reigned supreme from 1903 – 1914.

…

M. Poiret’s fascination with orientalist aesthetics,

ease of fit  and vibrant colours

are evident in his work.

(image from colleterie.com):

 Poiret creations, illustrated by George Barbier (1912)

…

He is also famously remembered for iconic pieces:

the lampshade tunic and harem trousers.

(image from collections. vam.ac.uk):

Evening dress - Sorbet

Lampshade tunic (1912), Victoria and Albert Museum – London

…

(image from etsy.com):

Postcard of a lady in wearing Poiret harem trousers (1910s)

…

Now … Natalie Capell

Ms. Capell’s  a / w 2014 collection embraces Poiret sensibilities:

column dress silhouette

fluidity of movement

gentle draping

orientalist elements

textural depth

exquisite headdress

…

Ms. Capell restricted palette of

dove greys, sea greens, blacks, nudes

creates a colour cohesion throughout the collection.

The dresses enjoyed delicately embroidered decolletage detailing

complemented by statement accessories:

structural hats with edged veil

and nude-coloured gloves

…

The models glided in soft ballerina slippers

and seemed posed while in movement,

as in couture shows of a bygone area.

…

Elegant

Poised

Feminine

Understated …

Natalie Capell, a / w  2014

…

The Collection

(images from http://www.080barcelonafashion.cat):

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View the runway presentation

Natalie Capell,  a/w 2014

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Mark your diary … ‘and that’s a wrap’: in conversation with designer Diane von Furstenberg

12 Sunday Jan 2014

Posted by meappropriatestyle in fashion and politics, history notes, iconic garment, interviews, mark your diary, prints, womenswear

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

'Journey of a Dress' - exhibition, 1970s, Diane von Furstenberg, icon garment, Los Angeles County Museum (LACMA), wrap dress

On Monday, 13 January 2013

the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA)

will host an evening in conversation featuring acclaimed designer

and Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) president

Diane von Furstenberg.

 

(image from the guardian.com):

Diane-von-Furstenberg--007

 

 

…

Ms. Furstenberg will discuss her iconic

wrap dress

with W magazine editor Stefano Tonchi

…

This special event is part of the LACMA exhibition

‘Journey of a Dress’

which acknowledges the wrap dress’ 40th anniversary:

the simple, fuss free, elegant, colourful, print  garment

which celebrates and flatters the female form –

the dress for every women.

…

In 1974, Diane von Furstenberg revolutionised women’s dress

with the creation of the jersey wrap dress.

The silhouette of the wrap dress was of immediate universal appeal.

It was widely and wildly received.

…

The arrival of the wrap dress coincided with

the momentum of the second wave of the feminist movement,

which began at the end of WWII and focused on workplace equality.

Championed by Betty Friedan founding president of NOW

(National Organisation for Women)

and author of The Feminine Mystique –

this second phase of the movement inspired women to fulfil

their personal and professional ambitions in a then uncompromising

male-dominated society, which presented barriers to such goals.

…

The wrap dress became a fashion statement response to a then

current socio-economic and political concern.

As the dress is functional, practical, easy-care, it was

ideal attire for the woman on the move.

Ms. Furstenberg herself embodied the spirit of the movement:

strong,  independent,  successful.

…

(image from styleite.com):

Ms. Furstenberg graces the 1976 cover of Newsweek magazine

in one of her wrap dress creations.

Created in 1974,  by 1976 over one million wrap dresses

had been sold world-wide establishing

Ms. Furstenberg as a design and business success story.

…

…

(image from http://www.dvf.com):

Timeline - The Seventies

Ms. Furstenberg in one of her original designs

…

(images from fashionising):

Always au courant

wrap dresses by Diane von Furstenberg,  s/s 2014

 

diane-von-furstenberg-spring-summer-2014-nyfw11

short  –  sassy –   swing

…

diane-von-furstenberg-spring-summer-2014-nyfw31

maxi  –  maximal –  movement

…

‘Journey of a Dress’

11 January 2014 – 1 April 2014

Los Angeles County Museum of Art

further information can be obtained from

http://www.lacma.org

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