This autumn the Victoria and Albert Museum, London

presents a comprehensive exhibition on the oeuvre

of famed photographer Horst P. Horst, (1906 – 1999)

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(image from vam.ac.uk):

Horst P. Horst in studio with celebrated model Lisa Fonssagrives

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German born, Horst studied in Hamburg and

after becoming increasingly absorbed by the

avant garde art movement, he moved to Paris.

There he undertook architectural study

under the tutelage of Le Corbusier.

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Horst’s interest centred on a development of modernist expression.

Yet, his artistic interpretation was not to be fulfilled through

architecture, as was his initial ambition.  Horst became acquainted with renown

Vogue photographer, Baron George Hoyningen-Huene.

He became Hoyningen-Huene’s assistant and succumbed to the appeal

of photography, the art form through which he would eventually gain

international recognition.

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Horst’s first photo credit appeared in French Vogue, 1931.

By 1932, with his photographs featured in British Vogue, Horst P. Horst was

on a career ascent.  The association with Vogue lasted his entire working life,

which spanned an impressive sixty years (1931 – 1991).

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During the 1930s and 1940s he photographed

fashion luminaries such as Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and

fashion model extraordinaire Lisa Fonssagrives.

Many of Hollywood glitterati, Betti Davis, Marlene Dietrich

and Ginger Rogers to name a few, were also subject of his work.

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(image from indulgy):

the model, Lisa Fonssagrives

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(images from jacksonfineart):

the actress, Marlene Dietrich

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the actress, Ginger Rogers

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His images were composed from an eclectic array and combination of influences:

“His aesthetic range throughout the 1930s and (1940s) was vast, encompassing elements of Greek classicism, Baroque romanticism, Hollywood studio photography, trompe l’oeil, and film noir; he also ventured into the avant-garde, revealing such influences as the Bauhaus and Surrealism.”  (from vogue.com)

The photos created had a chiaroscuro quality of boldly contrasting light and

dark in an intricate play of shadow.  The effect produced was of profound

tonal aspect.

(image from tumblr.com):

fashion shot, representative of Horst’s command of

light, dark and shadow impact

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Horst immigrated to the United States and received his American

citizenship in 1943.  He would go on to serve in the U.S. army,

working as a photographer.

He photographed the then President of the United States Harry S. Truman.

and was granted the distinct honour of photographing

every post-war U. S.  First Lady.

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(images from uberchicmichi):

First Lady Betty Ford

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First Lady Barbara Bush

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In the later part of his career, he photographed famed rockers of the

music scene:  Duran Duran and Mike Jagger.

His love of his art was simply an expression of his love of life.  He once stated,

“I like taking photographs, because I like life.

(and) I love photographing people best of all,

because most of all I love humanity.”

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Horst P. Horst

A selection

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Fashion finishes

(image from jacksonfineart)

white sleeve, 1936

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(image from jacksonfineart):

corset, 1939

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(image from depate):

lipstick-   Vogue, 1939

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(image from vogue.com):

summer hats, 1940

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(image from tumblr.com):

V for Vogue, 1940

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(images from depate):

May 1941, Vogue cover

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shoes-   Vogue, October 1941

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(image from theenglishgroup.com):

double exposure, 1947

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(image from tumblr):

Vogue, September 1947

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(image from onlyoldphotography):

fashion model, Evelyn Tripp in dress designed by Charles James, 1951

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(image from tumblr):

Vogue 1959

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(image from photography – now):

tall fashion, 1964

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(image from tumblr):

Vogue 1966

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(image from photography – now):

‘bared’-  1987

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Celebrity status:  literati, movie stars

(images from tumblr):

surrealist painter, Salvador Dali, 1943

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playwright, Noel Coward and actress, Gertrude Lawrence

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actress, Loretta Young

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Mexican muralist, David Alfaro Siqueiros and his wife, 1945

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screenwriter/director-  Luchino Visconti

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Horst:  Photographer of Style

Victoria and Albert Museum, London

6 September 2014  –  4 January 2015

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For additional details, visit:

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/exhibition-horst-photographer-of-style/about-the-exhibition/