Alice Cicolini - jewellery designer, enamelling, jewellery collection: a/w 2014, jewellery design, London Fashion Week - a/w 2014, Memphis Design Movement, minakari jewellery, Silk Road, tassel sautoir
British jewellery designer,
(image from tribuneindia.com):
trained at London College of Fashion and
completed an MA in Jewellery Design from
Central Saint Martins.
Her pieces presented during London Fashion Week, a/w 2014
are delicately crafted.
The rings and necklace pendants are sparingly, simply
set in gold with gemstones,
pearls and enhanced by enamel decorative elements.
Reds, greens, shadings of purple, pale pinks, whites –
define the collection’s multi-chromatic palette.
Ms. Cicolini design aesthetics is a combination of influences
from ancient cultures of Asia and the Middle East.
She integrates the enamel-making traditions of
Persia (present-day Iran) into her design schemes.
This type of enamel-making is called minakari.
Heat fused coloured glass paste
is used to decorate metal surfaces.
Gold is traditionally used for the setting
in minakari jewellery.
The wearing and manufacturing of
minakari jewellery can be traced to
the Persian courts of the 16th and 17th century.
It remains today, a much desired jewellery type
particularly in the Middle East and India.
Ms. Cicolini’s designs are all hand-made in India –
a region where minikari artistry still thrives.
(image from flickrhivemind.net):
Red minakari heart
(image from exoticindianart.com):
Perisan blue minakari necklace and earrings set floral motif
Ms. Cicolini is intriged with patterns.
She incorporates concepts/materials
of the Silk Trade Route into her designs.
The Silk Trade Route (also called The Silk Road)
is an ancient trade route connecting China and the West (Rome).
Beginning from third century B.C. (300 BC – 201 BC),
it allowed for the exchange of goods and ideas
between the East and the West.
Also evidenced in her work is the traditional Japanese aesthetics of
pattern with circular form.
Ms. Cicolini successfully translates ancient/traditional forms into
modern interpretive design elements, celebrating
age old artistry techniques made anew.
LFW , a/w 2014
(images/slideshow from londonfashionweek.co.uk):
Kimono Tahitian Ring
23.5 ct enamel balls
18 ct gold band with pink and yellow diamonds
polished white opal and Tahitian pearl
Memphis Ring in Brandy Citrine
fairtrade silver, lacquer, brandy citrine (rare quartz)
14 ct bold bezel setting
hand lacquered in the UK
band pattern inspired by
Ettore Sottsass Memphis design movement
Silk Trade Route Tassel Sautoir
sautoir – a French term for a long necklace
that suspends a tassel or other ornament
Pieces combining traditional jewellery designs
inspired from Persia and Japan
– Minakari enamelling
– Japanese pattern of circular form
Kimono Opal Ring
23.5 ct gold enamel ball (motif based on a kimono print)
18 ct gold band set with pink and champagne diamonds
polished pink and white opal beads
Kimono Pendant Cluster Necklace
23.5 ct gold enamel ball, 18 ct gold loop set with diamonds
polished white opal, Tahitian pearl
to view the collection