Tags
autumn/winter 2014, Barcelona Fashion Week - a/w 2014, column dress, Natalie Capell, orientalist influences, Paul Poiret - aesthetics, structural hats, womenswear
For her Autumn/Winter 2014 collection
(presented at Barcelona Fashion Week)
designer Natalie Capell
offered a silhouette wonderfully reminiscent
of the creations of Paul Poiret,
“Le Magnifique” as he was known in Paris
(and as “The King of Fashion” in the United States).
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Then … Paul Poiret
One of the greatest designers of the twentieth century
Paul Poiret (1879 – 1944)
was a fashion visionary and marketing strategist –
unconventional, radical, pioneering.
(image from examiner.com):
Poiret at work
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Initially working in famous ateliers (including that of Charles Worth),
M. Poiret establishing his own concern in 1903,
revolutionised fashion design by creating a new silhouette –
one which liberated the body from constrictions
inflicted by the debilitating corset and the unnatural S-shaped contours.
M. Poiret’s creations celebrated freedom:
of movement for the wearer
of innovation for the designer.
(image from http://www.theatreoffashion.com):
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(images from http://www.metmuseum.org):
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(image from victoriana.com):
Poiret evening dress, (circa 1914)
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His designs of ‘body liberation’ coincided with
the first-wave of the feminist movement (beginning of the 20th C.)
(image from tchevalier.com):
which ushered in a socio/political, world-wide campaign
to improve women’s status.
Was M. Poiret a fashion innovator responding to societal change ?
Most probably so – given the genius of M. Poiret
in design and in marketability,
which reigned supreme from 1903 – 1914.
…
M. Poiret’s fascination with orientalist aesthetics,
ease of fit and vibrant colours
are evident in his work.
(image from colleterie.com):
Poiret creations, illustrated by George Barbier (1912)
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He is also famously remembered for iconic pieces:
the lampshade tunic and harem trousers.
(image from collections. vam.ac.uk):
Lampshade tunic (1912), Victoria and Albert Museum – London
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(image from etsy.com):
Postcard of a lady in wearing Poiret harem trousers (1910s)
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Now … Natalie Capell
Ms. Capell’s a / w 2014 collection embraces Poiret sensibilities:
column dress silhouette
fluidity of movement
gentle draping
orientalist elements
textural depth
exquisite headdress
…
Ms. Capell restricted palette of
dove greys, sea greens, blacks, nudes
creates a colour cohesion throughout the collection.
The dresses enjoyed delicately embroidered decolletage detailing
complemented by statement accessories:
structural hats with edged veil
and nude-coloured gloves
…
The models glided in soft ballerina slippers
and seemed posed while in movement,
as in couture shows of a bygone area.
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Elegant
Poised
Feminine
Understated …
Natalie Capell, a / w 2014
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The Collection
(images from http://www.080barcelonafashion.cat):
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View the runway presentation
Natalie Capell, a/w 2014
