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Fashion designers are receptive to a myriad of influences

from things current and from things past.

For his s/s 2009 collection, British designer Gareth Pugh

was inspired by 16th century dress.

(image from nymag.com):

designer, Gareth Pugh

He acknowledged that the British monarch,

Queen Elizabeth I (1533 – 1603)

served as his fashion muse.

(image from bbc.co.uk):

portrait, elizabeth 1, ermine portrait, by nicholas hillard

Queen Elizabeth I

by Nicholas Hilliard, 1595

Known for a ‘fashion as performance art’ approach to his designs,

Pugh’s monochromic colour themed collection

featured extravagant ruff collars, which directly

referenced this garment detail of the Elizabethan period.

Of interest to Pugh was the effect of the 16th century ruff collar

on the manner in which the wearer’s body moved.

Certainly the cloth of ruff collar,

starched stiff to hold its folds

limited side to side head mobility and

probably altered the wearer’s natural stance and walk.

As the Pugh collection indicates,

fashion anticipates future dress as well as

pays homage to former times.

 

(images from stylebistro.com)

From the Gareth Pugh archives

s/s 2009

Gareth Pugh Spring 2009

Gareth Pugh Spring 2009

Gareth Pugh Spring 2009

Gareth Pugh Spring 2009

Gareth Pugh Spring 2009

Gareth Pugh Spring 2009

Hear Gareth Pugh’s comments on 16th century fashion:

ruff collars, sleeve hems and Elizabeth I as style icon

at the Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace exhibition (London, UK)

In Fine Style:  The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion

ends 6 October 2013