Clothes statement: a fashion observation by William Shakespeare

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A writer whose words will continue to inspire ad infinitum,

William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616)

wielded a mighty pen.

From his play,

The Tragedy of Hamlet, Prince of Denmark (Hamlet)

published in 1603,  is the following commentary:

quote, shakespeare, hamlet, clothes

Certainly, a fashion statement for the ages on an observable distinction-

the dress is synonymous with the woman / the man.

If this be the case, choose wisely!

(image from azquote.com)

Inspired by traditional Japanese paper craft (origami): by designer, Junya Watanabe for a / w 2015

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Japanese avant garde designer

Junya Watanabe

is an innovative voice in the chorus of fashion design.

Educated at famed Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo (graduated, 1984);

mentored by designer, Rei Kawakubo (Comme Des Garçons);

in 1993, he launched his own line under the Commed Des Garçon umbrella-

Junya Watanabe Comme Des Garçons.

His menswear and womenswear collections regularly challenge

accepted aesthetic norms with unexpected design interpretives.

 

Not without his share of controversy,

his menswear collection for s/s 2016 came under intense

scrutiny, discussion, query:

use of only Caucasian models in preppy dress

and with African inspired textiles / accessories.

Was it willful “cultural appropriation”;

pointed commentary on colonialism-

a bit of both?

Was it singularly a bit of expressed disappointment by fashion-watchers

for the lack of model diversity in the runway representation? –

a bit of all of the above?

 

Junya Watanabe

Menswear,  s / s  2016

(images from style.com):

junya watanabe, men s_s  2016 junya watanabe, men s_s  2016

For his womenswear collection, a / w 2016

Mr. Watanabe embarked on another design direction:

 

 

Origami inspired folds and pleats

Honeycomb fabric feature

B / W   (black / white colour story)

Sculptural

Compelling headwear

Studded brogues

 

Junya Watanabe

Womenswear,  a / w 2016

junya, cutouts, fall 2015, 18-junya-watanabe

junya, orgami, fall 2015, style, 03-junya-watanabe

junya, oragami, fall 2015, 08-junya-watanabe

junya, oragami fall 2015, 20-junya-watanabe  junya, oragami, fall 2015, 10-junya-watanabe junya, orgami head dress, fall 2015, 45-junya-watanabe junya, orgami, fall 2015, 05-junya-watanabe

junya, orgami, fall 2015, 07-junya-watanabe

junya, orgami, fall 2015, 42-junya-watanabe  junya, slits, fall 2015,15-junya-watanabe

Fashion – speak, dictionary entry and the word is “half – tuck”

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Fashion-speak

is a living language,

ever evolving to better describe

dress images presented

And the word is

half- tuck

half – tuck  (adj.)

  1.  to describe wearing one’s shirt with a few buttons undone

and a portion (half) of the shirt hem placed inside waist of

trouser / skirt and the other portion left out

2.  a casual / cool dress sensibility

 

Related forms:

half – tucked,  verb

worn (to wear) tucked in,  adjective clause

 

 

 

Half -tuck

“out” and about

 

(image from fashionbeans.com):

half tuck, shirt, men

“To tuck (l)   or  not to tuck (r) ?”

the burning sartorial query

Just go for it-  a fashion release!

 

 

(image from dmarge.com):

half tucked, david-beckham

Half – tuck and more than half unbottoned

a casual look favoured by style trendsetter

former footballer,  David Beckham

 

 


(image from style.com):

half-tuck, ladies

The ‘stand – out’  look

half – tuck shirt

rolled up sleeves

ripped at the knee skinny jeas

 

 

(image from fashionising.com):

half-tuck, ladies

Classic off – duty styling

white shirt, half tuck (Mais oui!)

slight flared bottom dark wash jeans

Accessorise me! in black with touches of gold

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Accessorise Me!

On the go

the clothing:  black trouser suit and white tee – shirt

the accessories:  black two band sliders with gold stud details

black box bag with gold stud and gold metal corner details

 

 

accessorise me, gold grommet black slider, gold grommet box bag

(photo by Adam Katz Sinding)

Musical Interlude: the “Soul Makossa” by jazz saxophonist, Manu Dibango

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Manu Dibango

was born in Cameroon, a country in Central Africa

off the Gulf of Guinea.

Born in 1933, he started his musical career in

Brussel and Paris during the late 1950s.

He would go on to achieve accolades as a

jazz saxophonist.

 

(image from brandcameroon.com):

manu dibango, soul makossa

Manu Dibango

is credited widely as being one of the creators of disco music

In 1972 he released the internationally acclaimed, mostly instrumental piece

Soul Makossa:

a synergy of musical styles from afro-soul, disco, funk, big band to makossa-

 the dancehall music of his native Cameroon.

With the incredible success of his hit Soul Makossa

Manu Dibango

became the first African musician to reach

the top 40 of the American music charts.

Nicknamed “the lion of Cameroon”

Mr. Dibango continues to roar.

His last London performance was in 2013 at the Barbican Centre.

He was 80 years old!

A mighty roar

from Manu Dibango

Soul Makossa

1972

The Look: a coat well scripted

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The Look

Putting it all together!

– gender neutral fashion

– B / W herringbone patterned scarf

– tomato red sleeveless jumper

– white sleeveless long-length coat

in twill pattern detail with hand-drawn wording

(by designer, Raf Simons)

– simple black trousers

– natural hair statement

the look, b_w herringbone scraf, red sleeveles sweater, script print sleeveless white jaket pausemagLuka-Sabbat-

(image from pause magazine)

A pink colour story for autumn / winter 2015

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In the pink

Beauty, sensitivity, romance, gentleness, delicacy-

are but a few words in the contemporary lexicon

ascribable to the colour pink.

Yet, there there are a few variants to the

“pink colour word history”.

 

Reference to a colour pink is traceable to ancient times

and certainly pink as a vibrant pigment colour,

(a blending of red and white)

was much used in religious painting

during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

Consider the use of pink pigment on manuscript leaves from

by famed 15th century Dutch minaturist painters

The Limbourg Bothers –

Adoration of the Magi

from Belles Heures du Jean Duc de Berry

In the pink:

focal Magi’s garment

pink, renaissance painting, tres riches heures

St. Catherine Bound to Column

from Belles Heures du Jean Duc de Berry (1408)

In the pink:

God’s shirt, on-lookers cap, executioner’s cloak

pink, Renaissance, tres riches heures, man in pink robe, oberlin.edu week11-0068

(images from acro-iris.com and oberlin.edu)

 

By the late 17th century, “pink”  as a colour word

was utilised in the English language.

It’s derivation stems from

the name of the Dutch flower “pinken”.

 

 

Yet,  it is the strong gender alignment of the colour,

which is of particular interest.

Originally in European culture

pink was more regarded as a masculine colour

due to its hue relationship with the “murderous”  colour red.

Whereas blue was thought of as a colour more relatable to women as

it is the traditional colour worn by the Virgin Mary in artworks of her “likeness”.

 

By the mid 20th century, the colour gender alignment

had shifted with pink most strongly identified with women and

blue most connected with men.

The evolution of pink as colour statement continues.

Today it seems more a colour of gender neutrality.

 

Pink is also a colour charged by political affiliation.

It has come to be widely used as word reference to

leftist / communist leanings.

In current vernacular, Latin American countries with

leftist political heads of state are known as the “Pink Tide”  nations.

An emotive colour with a fascinating history trail

pink is set to be an impact colour for autumn / winter 2015.

In the pink

and

gender- neutral

a / w 2015

For the Gents:

Comme des Garçons by Rei Kawakubo

graphic twirls – fantastic

pink, men, 2015,

by designer, Astrid Andersen

hard / soft

=

 a beret / a bit of lace over-lay

pink, men, f 2015

Good ‘n Plenty

A pink and black colour mix

pink, men, f 2015

by desinger, Walter Van Beirendonck 

In blush pink

For when a jacket is required

pink, men, f 2015,

from Casely-Hayford

by father and son design duo,  Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford

In bright fushcia

overcoat

pink, men, fall, 2015

For the ladies:

by designer, Junya Watanabe

orgami sculptural in raspberry pink

pink, women, fall, 2015

from Topshop Unique

In champagne pink

dress:  shoulders bared, form fit

runched material, thin black band, mini

pink, women, fall, 2015

by designer, Catriona Mcauley

In amaranth pink

front draping

pink, ladies, fall, 2015

from Custo Barcelona

In varying shades of pink and lavender purple

dress:  knit, patchwork design, mini

pink, fall 2015, mini dress

from Balmain

by designer, Olivier Rousteing

In persian rose pink

palazzo trousers:  pleats /  flowing 

pink, fall 2015

from  A.W.A.K.E.

by designer, Natalia Alaverdian

light coral pink overcoat

wide lapel , wide sleeves with side slits

pink, fall 2015,

Graduate Collection

from Central Saint Martins College

by designer Samuel Guidong Yang

In rose pink

asymmetrical booting

to the knee / at the ankle

pink, fall 2015, boots_shoes, central saint martins, style, KIM_0620

“A.W.A.K.E” to motley fashion for Fall 2015- by designer, Natalia Alaverdian

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Natalia Alaverdian, designer of A.W.A.K.E.

(which is the acronym for her label All Wonderful Adventures Kindle Enthusiasm)

has created an autumn / winter 2015 women’s collection

which elegantly melds simple forms with modern, playful imagery.

The design referencing is multi – storied:

 

Japanese manga comics / anime film

Japanese kimono-esque silhouettee

aymmetric details

mixed fabrication

textural

volume

unfussed

subdued base colours

historic hints (medieval sleeves / contours)

’40s flair

’50s hemlines

’60s fashion foward push cue

current style sensibilities

and then some!

The clothes are a gentle jumble of various influences.

Yet, all comes together seamlessly-

in an coherent collection.

The label, which launched in 2012

is “wide awake” with creative engergy and possibilities.

A.W.A.K.E.

A / W  2015

(images from style.com):

An eclectic design mix

awake-, fall, 2015

In a medieval mind

awake-, fall, 2015

Kimono-esque

awake-, fall, 2015

awake, fall 2015

’60s trouser suiting inspired

awake, fall 2015

Flouncy skirt with a bit of kick

à la Carmen Miranda

awake, fall 2015

Monastic following

awake, fall 2015

Faux fur panel coat

and Japanese scripted

awake, fall 2015

A new view on high / low

awake, fall 2015

Skirt suiting

awake, fall 2015

awake, fall 2015

Fashion-speak: dictionary entry, and the word is ‘anti-glamour’

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Fashion – speak is a living language,

ever evolving to better describe

dress images presented

And the word is

Anti-glamour

an’ti – gla’mour  (adj.)

  1.  a increasingly popular term on the fashion scene to describe the antithesis

of an accepted ideal of beauty

2.  challenges societal stereotypes of what is regarded as beauty for women

3.  encouraging acceptance of various body types as images of beauty:

body curves, body tattoss, body piercing, body agender, body “whatever”

4.  ascribing as beautiful something / someone against the norm

 

 

Anti – glamour

“You’re beautiful, dahling”

in every way

 

 

(image from justjared):

anti glamour, fashion-speak

Curvy and inked

Self appointed spokeswoman for anti-glamour

American actress / author Lena Dunham

(image from glamour magazine uk):

anti glamour, fashion-speak

Brains, not hair is the beauty

Skivvy cut

Sinead O’Conner

Irish singer / songwriter

(flavorwire.com):

anti glamour, fashion-speak

Body-art

As of 2012  more women outnumber men in body tatts

(Stats for the U.S.  Source:  flavorwire.com)

“She said what?!” : quoted from Agatha Christie

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“She said what?!”

featuring statements from outspoken women:

opinions, outlooks, observations

which they were more than willing to share.

 

British writer, Agatha Christie (1890 – 1976)

was an internationally renown best selling

mystery / crime novelist, playwriter and author of short stories.

An extraordinary talent from an early age,

her mother enthusiastically encouraged her to write.

(image from the telegraph uk):

agatha-christie, portrait

the writer, Agatha Christie

Her first book, The Mysterious Affair at Styles published in 1920-

introduced the character,  Belgian detective Hercule Poiro

who featured in many subsequent stories.

Ms. Christie wrote over 30 novels, which spotlighted this much loved character:

Murder on the Orient Express (1934), Death on the Nile (1937) among others.

During the 1970s, both of these popular writings

were made into equally popular movies.

The year 1926 was an annus horribilis:

her beloved mother died and

her beloved husband fell in love with another woman and

petitioned for a divorce.

Depressed, saddened-   Ms. Chrisite famously disappeared

without a clue as to her whereabouts.

All of England was caught up in the media story storm of mystery:

where was the missing, mystery story writer?

She would emerge three weeks later and

would never speak publically of the incident again.

 

Her fame as a playwright is evidenced still.

The Mousetrap, a play of murder,  mystery

with a surprise twist ending-

opened in the London, West End (1952).

It has been running continually ever since.

Now in its 63rd year of production at St. Martins Theatre, London-

The Mousetrap remains the longest running show

in the history of British theatre!

For her contribution to the literary arts,

Ms Christie was made a Dame in 1971.

 

 

A statement of positive self image,  of acceptance of self

A quote on options considered and decision made!

A “She said what?!”  quote by Agatha Christie

“I’ve got a stomach now as well as a behind.

And I mean – well,

you can’t pull it in both ways, can you?

  I’ve made it a rule to pull in my stomach

and let my behind look after itself.”

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