Haider Ackermann, Fall ’14 : autumnal style aspirations


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Fall is my favourite ‘to dress for’ season:

luxe layering with fabric mix


overall colour restraint,

with injection of vibrant, jewel hues


measured oversizing


a serious andro-chic style note


With his penchant for a bit of the extravagant and ‘dandy dress’

designer, Haider Ackermann

(image from fashion magazine):

hackermann imagenov10ackermann_250

created a Fall ’14 collection, which ticks the boxes

of my autumnal style wish list.

(images from style.com):

Haider Ackermann

Autumn 2014

The Collection

haider ackermann a 14_UMB2341.450x675 ha_UMB2363.450x675 ha_UMB2389.450x675 ha_UMB2380.450x675 ha_UMB2471.450x675 ha_UMB2490.450x675 ha_UMB2504.450x675 ha_UMB2587.450x675 ha_UMB2550.450x675 ha_UMB2420.450x675 ha_UMB2523.450x675 ha_UMB2441.450x675

Men’s autumn outerwear options, 2014 … reviewing the possibilities!


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It is not too early to consider the possibilities of autumn overcoats -

yes of course,  while still in the heat of summer swelter!

For what is fashion, but contemplation of the ‘what’s next’?

And the next burning seasonal sartorial query is:

How to keep out the chill and look on-point cool doing it?

Ideas from …

(images from style.com):

Menswear,  autumn 2014

Masion Martin Margiela 


at the forefront, right up to the edge

mensovercoat mmm_ARC0205.450x675

warm and fuzzy

mensovercoat mmm_ARC0310.450x675

sleeveless styling:

hand grasp or pin it

mensovercoat mmm_ARC0287.450x675

total bleach wash effect

mensovercoat mmm_ARC0274.450x675

parachute jacket

mensovercoat mmm_ARC0190.450x675

deep pockets

mensovercoat mmm_ARC0145.450x675

black  blue  buckled

overcoatmen mmm from style_ARC0038.450x675

trench twist

by designer, Billy Reid 

(New York)

warm, earthy, autumnal hues

billy reid_17G0453.450x675

check design in jewel hues

billy reid_17G0303.450x675

planket with buttons and fringe

in russet and green

billy reid_17G0132.450x675

fur collar trimmed

cropped double-breast jacket

billyreid mens outerwear a14_17G0089.450x675

mohair plaid pattern

in mustard and black

Issey Miyake (MEN)

by designer, Yusuke Takahashi


colourful planket- wear

issye miyakeYVL_8625.450x675issey miyakeYVL_8616.450x675

trench variants:

scrunched (t)

directional lines (b)

issey miyakeYVL_8565.450x675issey miyake mens over a14YVL_8545.450x675

Mark your diary! – BoyHood: a must-see cinematic feat


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Never has the cinematographic arts industry

naturally, honestly, intuitively

presented a movie which chronicles

a chapter of a life story spanning twelve consecutive years.

A significant span of a young boy’s life from age 6 to 18 -

portrayed in real time,

resulting in over a decade of filming as

he develops from a boy to a young man.



is the artistic triumph of filmmaker Richard Linklater.

It’s an emotive, experimental, ‘docu-fiction’, innovative piece of movie making.

Mr. Linklater has surely offered something special to the film-making craft.

The same actors appear over the twelve years of filming.

They age as nature intended.

The beauty of the film seems to be just that:

an unfolding of events – naturally intended.

Nothing elaborate, unbelievable, out of the ordinary -

scenes of life, which we all experience to some degree or another,

which pulls emotions of varying intensity.

The story centres  around a split family unit

Patricia Arquette plays the single mother

Ethan Hawke plays the returned ‘AWOL’ father

Lorelei Linklater plays the eldest child


Ellar Coltrane plays the boy of whose ordinary life

is subject of an extraordinary contribution to the art of cinema.



is now open in cinemas across the U.K. and internationally


A brief word on the film from writer/director Richard Linklater

and the star of the film, Ellar Coltrane

The worth of a friend constant … Sonnet 30 by William Shakespeare


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During those intermittent moments, during which one reflects on

 love lost, opportunities missed, those dear who have passed

a sadness inevitably overwhelms:

a feeling of regret.

Yet, a thought of a good and constant friend

of emotional and kind support, someone to turn to in time of need,

helps to ease the pain and set things right again.

Be a good friend, you’re needed more than you might know.



Sonnet 30

by William Shakespeare


When to the sessions of sweet silent thought
I summon up remembrance of things past,
I sigh the lack of many a thing I sought,
And with old woes new wail my dear time’s waste:
Then can I drown an eye, unus’d to flow,
For precious friends hid in death’s dateless night,
And weep afresh love’s long since cancell’d woe,
And moan the expense of many a vanish’d sight:
Then can I grieve at grievances foregone,
And heavily from woe to woe tell o’er
The sad account of fore-bemoaned moan,
Which I new pay as if not paid before.
But if the while I think on thee, dear friend,
All losses are restor’d and sorrows end.




shakespeare_portrait,bbc couk_deskWilliam Shakespeare, 1564 – 1616

English dramatist and poet

emerging designer, Roshi Porkar presents at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week – Berlin, Spring 2015


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Roshi Porkar

is an up and coming womenswear designer from Austria.

For Spring 2015, Ms. Porkar was awarded the incredible honour

of presenting her first collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Berlin.

Each season ELLE and Mercedes-Benz chooses one emerging designer

as recipient of this distinction in recognition of exceptional work.

Attending the Ms. Porkar’s show,

was fashion maverick, the British actress Tilda Swinton -

certainly a promising indication of great things to come

for this young talented designer.

roshi porkar designerRoshi+Porkar+Roshi+Porkar+presented+Mercedes+UBfB5XUZjZ_l

designer, Roshi Porkar

As demonstrated by Ms. Swinton, it is well worth

tracking the work of Roshi Porkar on the fashion radar.

Ms.  Porkar is definitely one to watch.

Her collection is wonderfully tactile,

a mix of seductive textures and fabrics:

wool, silk, feathers, faux fur.

There is a pronounced element of combined

luxury,  comfort, elegance -

which all beautifully marry.

The colours are subdued, organic with a

recurring hint of pale blue.

The silhouette celebrates a womanly form,

cinching at the waist, body skimming,

body friendly for all shapes.

Roshi Porkar

Spring 2015

The Collection

(images from superior-mag.com):

  Roshi Porkar presented by Mercedes-Benz and ELLE Show - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Roshi Porkar presented by Mercedes-Benz and ELLE Show - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Roshi Porkar presented by Mercedes-Benz and ELLE Show - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 Roshi Porkar presented by Mercedes-Benz and ELLE Show - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 Roshi Porkar presented by Mercedes-Benz and ELLE Show - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 Roshi Porkar presented by Mercedes-Benz and ELLE Show - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Roshi Porkar presented by Mercedes-Benz and ELLE Show - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

(images from mercedes-benz.com):

 Roshi Porkar presented by Mercedes-Benz and ELLE Show - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 Roshi Porkar presented by Mercedes-Benz and ELLE Show - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Roshi Porkar presented by Mercedes-Benz and ELLE Show - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

roshi porkar mercedes-benz.de14439632170_fafc8abac2

roshi porkar mercedes-benz.de114624179914_5e09ee7279

roshi porkar mercedes-benz.de14439676278_a6d1e9b7f7


Fashion speak: dictionary entry, and the word is ‘shoulder – perch’


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Fashion speak is a living language,

ever evolving to better describe

dress images presented

And the word is:

Shoulder – perch

shoul’der – perch (adj.)

1.   to describe a coat or jacket worn effortlessly and elegantly on the shoulders

2.   a statement of style confidence

Synonym:  shoulder – robing

(photos by Tommy Ton):

shoulder perch tt1389806745457_all-navy

shoulder perch tt1389365656622_street-style-fall-winter-2014-pitti-uomo-3-07

(image from woman money and style):

shoulder perch from womanmoney and styleenhanced-buzz-30253-1379091269-34-1

(photo by Kuba Dubrowski):

shoulder perch wwd by kuba dabrowski taw-day3-028

(image from le 21eme):

shoulder perch, yellow button.com5862-Le-21eme-Adam-Katz-Sinding-Tina-Leung-Milan-Mens-Fashion-Week-Fall-Winter-2014-2015_AKS3361-600x399

Favlook – Lookfav Focus: cycle – fashion


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With summer 2014 in full -swing

transport by bicycle

is in evidence everywhere-

on country lanes and city streets,

great for getting from here to there.

For some cycling is a seasonal fair-weather past time.

For many cycling has become the go-to means of daily transport:

environmentally friendly, cost efficient (no petrol costs),

easy to navigate through road traffic and enjoyable.

Yet cycle-fashion presents its own unique sartorial challenges:

how to look effortlessly chic, while pedaling around town:

to dress for ultimate comfort and ultimate style.

What to wear for a bike ride has been a query posed

since the invention of this two wheel transport wonder.

The construction of the bicycle, as we now it today,

was perfected by the late 1890s-

thanks to improvement in tire design and metallurgy.

For men, the bicycle was quickly embraced as a cost

effective means of transport for work and leisure;

 cycling- dress was relatively straightforward.

Long trousers were worn,

tucked to prevent entanglement in the wheel spokes, as well as

 the problem solving and smart – look,  knee length knickerbockers.

(image fron anywhen.com):

cycle fashion from anywhen.com Eng composer edward elgarElgar-with-bicycle-c-1900.

the composer, Edward Elger

cycle-fashion fabulous in long trousers, easily done

(image from commons wikimedia):

cycle fashion from commons.wikimedia knickerbociersPortrait_of_Johannes_Christian_Brunnich_with_a_bicycle

knickerbockers:  practical cycle-fashion

Given the restrictive nature of women’s clothing during the 19th century,

dressing for cycling presented its challenges for the ladies.

Yet, the pioneering forces of the feminist movement proclaimed

the bicycle as a symbol of emancipation:

a doing-away with the confining corset and bothersome bustle skirt -

for clothing of dress-ease and dress-practicality.

(image from heritage-explorer.co.uk):

cyclefashion from heritage-explorer.co.uk2696_450

sensible skirts for cycling

(image from change your life ride a bike):

cycle fashion from changeyourliferideabike208045_1883194595320_1105013116_32242899_42163_n

loose skirts for the ladies

knickerbocker trousers for the gents

In the opinion of Susan B. Anthony, noted American suffragette:

“the bicycle has done more for the emancipation of women

than anything else in the world.”  (c. 1896)

Today, cycle-fashion is as creative and varied as one’s imagination allows.

A few inspiring looks:

(image from free.fr):

cycle fashion from free.frbicicleta-moda-bike-fashion 4

pretty ballerina

(images from pinterest):

cycle fashion pinterestc94158432bd6636c87692cdc63f7b2c3


cycle fashion pinterest5dd218d82b8b6bb912a18d1162a76a47

it’s in the details: 

grey patterned statement headgear with red straps

coordinated red plaid skirt and mocha-hue trench

cycle fashion pinterestac58453ddfd0fb28ed00852bd761adc5

eclectic style setting:  equestrian hat, metallic mini, leather high tops

cycle fashion pinterest65eb17acb8e3de2a73dbcfb53ca5ddd7

a bit boho

(image from enzo club):

cycle fashion enzoclub.rumilano-man-riding-bicycle

fashionably accessorised ride: canvas / leather bike bag

(image from dailymail.co.uk):

cycle fashion dailymail.co.uk article-2473712-0AA0DEC3000005DC-875_634x495

on the move:  London City Boys

(image from a fashionable sport):

cycle fashion afashionsablesport in YAKKAY helmet Denmarkyakkay-pooch-658x438

a YAKKAY helmet (Danish design)

safety and style

(image from le 21eme.com):

cyclefashion le21eme.com5744-Le-21eme-Adam-Katz-Sinding-Catherina-Baba-Paris-Haute-Couture-Fashion-Week-Spring-Summer-2014_AKS0381

a touch of the Orient

cyclefashion le21eme.ocm4598-Le-21eme-Adam-Katz-Sinding-Catherina-Baba-Paris-Haute-Couture-Fashion-Week-Fall-Winter-2013-2014_AKS3288

stilettos?  mais oui bien sur!

(image from caramel a la mode):

cycle fashion from caramelalamode.comtumblr_inline_mo08ropYpP1qz4rgp

denim – wear:  shirt and backpack


(from free.fr)

cycle fashion from free.fr 7459690958_6d4ec44fdc_z

a bicycle built for three:  knickerbockers and argyle socks

Sartorial Inspiration

Cycle Fashion from the Tweed Run

(images from the dailymail.co.uk)

cycle fashion tweed run london 2014 daily mailarticle-2308626-19456FF7000005DC-595_634x453

the ladies in fine fashion form

Tweed Run, London 2014

cycle fashion tweed run 2014 dailymailarticle-2308626-1944C86C000005DC-647_634x407

all in the family

Tweed Run, London 2014

(image from velo city girl):

cycle fashion velo-city-girl14237766163_16f163f398_b

print / pattern mix

Tweed Run London, 2014

(image from japan trends):

cycle fashion japan trends.com 2013tweed-run-tokyo-2013-2

a flowing cape caught in the breeze

Tweed Run Tokyo, 2013

(image from the londonist):

cycle fashion londonist. 2013tweed3

arts blending:  music and fashion

Tweed Run, London 2013


Floral beards! … a blossoming summer accessorising trend for the gents?


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Summer dressing for 2014 is visually charged with floral inspirations.

No where is this trend more in evidence than in styling

with hair adornments for the ladies:

(images from asos):

hair garladn flower clips asosimage1xlhair garland floralheadband asos hmage1xl

hair garland asosimage1xlhair garlands asosimage1xl

It seems some of the gents are keen to be part of

the flower power hair movement;

not as head adornments but as beard decorations-

a new take on men’s facial hair fashion.

Is this a passing fancy or an indication of a

men’s summer sartorial scene of future?

Time will tell.

(images from tumblr):

flowers in beardstumblr_mmrakfdmg41qk3tfko1_500 flowers in beardstumblr_n7pzjrQmaZ1t08kbco1_500 flowers in beardstumblr_mztctv6UuL1qb141to1_500 flowers in beardstumblr_n8q6aqOvnn1tucbz9o1_500 flowers in beards nymagcoma_3x-horizontal flowers in beardstumblr_mub93t0Ysi1qeisy2o1_500

Mark your diary! The Barbican Centre, London … taking it to the street!


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The Barbican Centre,

located in the City of London

and celebrated as the largest multi-arts centre in Europe,

is co-sponsoring

The Ram Place Fashion Market

(image from facebook):

ram place fashion market 201410418492_542541715851896_2406602816053812537_n

a fashion street shopping experience

nestled on a little side street off Morning Lane, E9

in the community of Hackney.

Meet and mingle

browse and buy

pieces from emerging designers of jewelery,

fashion (including children’s clothing),

vintage shop finds and craft creations.

Attend scheduled talks/discussions on fashion,

have a bite to eat, hear a session of music …

Come out and Enjoy!

The Ram Place Fashion Market
Admission:  Free
Open daily 11am-10pm
until Sunday, 20 July 2014
Ram Place (off Morning Lane)
London E9 6LT
For added information, visit:

High marks for Haute Couture, Fall 2014


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The fashion term haute couture,

whose literal translation from French is

haute = high

couture = sewing

applies to clothing -

designed and crafted to bespoke specifications.

Couture fashion houses

belong to the Chambre Syndicale de Haute Couture, Paris

which is regulated by the French Department of Industry.

Founded in the 19th century by renown couturier,

Charles Frederic Worth – the father of modern haute couture,

today the Chambre  Syndicale de Haute Couture

 numbers around 16 member design houses.

Included,  in this rarified list are:

Christian Dior,  Jean-Paul Gaultier, Viktor & Rolf,

Chanel and Maison Martin Margiela and others.

There are strict specifications for members to adhere such as:

- having a workshop in Pairs

- employing at least 15 full -time individuals

in addition to upwards of 20 technical/specialist staff

- present two annual collections

- design bespoke clothing, to include at least one client fitting.

Given that it is entirely crafted by hand,

an haute couture piece is painstakingly labour intensive.

Created from expensive, lush fabrics -

the high cost of construction is reflected in the high price of the garment.

Yet the creative rationale of haute couture is

that is serves as a a platform for fashion innovation based

on the tradition of exceptional workmanship.

A possible added financial rationale?

Haute couture fashion helps to power

marketing of a label’s more affordable

ready-to-wear lines, accessories and beauty products.

This week the couture houses presented their Autumn 2014 collections.

A few that caught my attention:

(images from style.com):

Fall 2014 Couture

Viktor & Rolf

by Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren

couture viktor rolf_KIM0039.450x675

couture viktor rolf_KIM0063.450x675

a wearing of the ‘red carpet’

Maison Martin Margiela

coutureMMM_0486.450x675 coutureMMM_0397.450x675 couture MMM_0447.450x675

lux mats:  silks, furs, jewels

and a hint of drama:  ornate ‘face-cover wear’

by Ulyana Sergeenko

couture sulyana sergeenkoULY_1716.450x675 couture ulyana sergeenkoULY_1619.450x675 couture ulyana sergeenkoULY_1812.450x675

old-style Hollywood glam with modern accents

by Giambattista Valli

couture giambattista valliVAL_0943.450x675 couture giambattista valli 14VAL_1038.450x675 couture giambattista valliVAL_1004.450x675

informal meets formal cotillion:

head wraps, simple shirts

wide skirts of ruffles, lace and feathers


 by Marco Zanini

hats by Stephen Jones

couture schiaparelliSCH_0346.450x675 couture schiaparelliSCH_0226.450x675 couture collection f2014 schiaparelliSCH_0193.450x675



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